On the final Sunday in June, colorful heirloom and red hybrid tomatoes made their inaugural appearance at our farmers markets. There had been a few previously, but no more than a little basketful of the first small globes. Now, there are boxes filled with several different varieties.
At first, I didn’t see the tomatoes, as I was so enchanted by a box of ripe Santa Rosa plums that I didn’t notice anything else. When I returned to buy some plums, there they were in all their rainbow glory, every color, it seemed, save blue.
The season’s harvest is starting to kick into high gear. There will be more tomatoes at each farmers market, along with an array of chilies, corn, green beans and peaches. Figs are already ripening, too. Dry Creek Peach and Produce’s Arctic Gem white peaches are nearly a month earlier than usual. Triple T Farm is harvesting Shishito chilies, Laguna Farms has green beans and nearly everyone has cucumbers, including lemon cukes.
This is the time when cooking from scratch is at its easiest, when you can put a delicious meal on the table in a few minutes without a trip to store, especially if you keep a well-stocked pantry. With basic ingredients on hand, a visit to a farmers market once or twice a week should be all you need to feed your yourself and your family well from now until late fall sets in.
You’ll also need to stock up on dairy products now and then if you farmers market doesn’t carry them, though several markets now do.
What do I mean by well-stocked pantry? you rightly ask. It is important to have flake salt and whole peppercorns on hand, always. In addition, you should have at least two olive oils, one for cooking and one for the flavor it imparts.
A good all-purpose vinegar--red wine, white wine or apple cider, depending on your preference--is essential and if you love balsamic vinegar, as most people seem to these days, you should have a bottle of that, as well.
Grains of choice, from polenta, rice, bulgur and farro to all manner of pastas and other noodles should be in the cupboard throughout the season.
Garlic is essential, of course, as are onions and shallots. I like to keep potatoes on hand for salad but I’m careful not to store them near the onions, as that hastens the spoilage of both.
You should have good butter, pastured eggs and good mayonnaise in the refrigerator, homemade chicken stock and local lard in the freezer and, if you don’ t have a full garden, a pot planted with chives, thyme, oregano and summer savory.
If you do have a garden, you’ll also want several basil and Italian parsley plants, at a minimum.
It’s a good idea to have bacon in the refrigerator or freezer at this time of year, as well, so that you can make a BLT at a moment’s notice.
These are the basics, the minimum of what you need to cook great food quickly.
With just these ingredients plus what you harvest from your garden or buy at a farmers market, you can easily make delicious salads, soups, sandwiches, egg dishes and what are typically called side-dishes but warrant a place at the center of the plate, especially in hot weather.
These recipes are adapted from ones in “The Good Cook’s Book of Tomatoes,” just released by Skyhorse Publishing ($18.99).
I enjoy this any time of day during tomato season, at breakfast, lunch and dinner. If it is hot, you may need nothing more than a big green salad alongside.
For a bigger meal, add some grilled sausages and your favorite mustard alongside.
Simple Fried ?Tomatoes
Serves 4
6 large firm-ripe tomatoes
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
3-4 garlic cloves, crushed and minced
- Kosher salt
- Black pepper in a mill
2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs (any combination of Italian parsley, chives, basil, thyme and oregano)
- Sourdough hearth bread, sliced and lightly toasted
Slice off the stem end and blossom end of each tomato and either discard them or save these pieces for another use.
Cut the tomatoes into ¼-inch-thick rounds.
Set a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat, add the butter and olive oil, and, when the mixture is hot, add the garlic; sauté about 90 seconds.
Add the tomatoes in a single layer, working in batches as necessary, and cook for 2 minutes. Turn and cook for 2 minutes more. If working in batches, use a spatula to transfer the tomatoes to a platter, leaving behind the pan juices.
When all the tomatoes have been cooked, pour the pan juices over them.
Season with salt and pepper, scatter the herbs on top, and serve immediately, with the bread alongside for sopping up the juices.
Variations
After all the tomatoes are cooked, return the pan to the heat, add the herbs and ½ cup heavy cream, swirl over the heat until the cream begins to bubble and pour over the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper and enjoy right away.
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