Wine of the week: Medlock Ames, 2011 Bell Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet is king, but it still needs a court.

“Cabernet is almost always improved by blending,” according to Ames Morison, winemaker and founding partner of Healdsburg’s Medlock Ames winery. “We’re fortunate to grow several blending varieties that help make our cab even better… it’s really wonderful when enhanced by merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc, and my newest favorite - malbec.”

Morison behind our wine-of-the-week winner: the Medlock Ames, 2011 Bell Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon at $42.

The cab has a great concentration of fruit and a full range of flavors: black currant, plum, licorice and mineral. It has great structure, but manages to be supple. It’s gorgeous.

Cabernet is a puzzle of a wine - a true challenge, Morison explained.

“Cabernet is the most complex wine we make,” he said. “It takes the longest to age; it requires the most blending and the most work. But it is incredibly satisfying to taste it, years later, and reflect on all of the hard work that went into making it.”

A Virginia native, Morison graduated from Tulane University in New Orleans with a degree in ancient history. His agricultural career began with a three-year placement as an agricultural educator with the Peace Corps in Guatemala.

During his post, he encouraged locals to use traditional, but often forgotten, modes of farming. This experience convinced Morison that modern, intensive farming is a poor replacement for diversified agriculture and a more balanced and sustainable approach to growing crops.

His experience with farming in Guatemala, combined with a lifelong fascination with fine wine, inspired Morison to found his own winery.

After a long search, Morison identified Bell Mountain Ranch in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley as an ideal site to develop a winery and organic vineyard. He planted most of the 55-acre vineyard as well as supervised the construction of the winery, which was completed just before the 2003 vintage.

Morison found his calling during the harvest of 1998.

“I have always enjoyed wine, but my first harvest, I just knew that it was what I was meant to do,” Morison said. “I was shoveling out a tank after the fermentation. It’s hard work and I was covered in wine and grape skins, and at that moment I thought to myself that life couldn’t possibly get any better than that.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.

Wine of the Week: Scouting for the tastiest mixed reds.

Wine writer Peg Melnik had a blind tasting of mixed reds this week, and the flight included cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, and zinfandel. There were definitely some tasty finds in the mix, but the standout was our wine-of-the-week winner -- the Medlock Ames, 2011 Bell Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon at $42. This cab is a not-to-be-missed knockout.

TOP PICK:

Medlock Ames, 2011 Bell Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.6 percent alcohol, $42. ????

1/2 A cab with a great concentration of fruit, and a full range of flavors -- black currant, plum, licorice and mineral. Great structure, but it manages to be supple. Gorgeous.

Other impressive wines:

Saint Gregory, 2010 Lost Creek Vineyards, Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir, 13.5 percent, $28. ????

A complex pinot with layered notes of black cherry, cola and rosemary. Bright acidity. Supple. Lovely.

Hanna, 2013 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 14.5 percent, $48. ????

A striking pinot with a big personality. It has a great melding of flavors -- cherry, plum, chocolate and toast. Firm tannins. Nice length. Full-bodied. Tasty.

Kendall-Jackson, 2012 Grand Reserve, Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5 percent, $28. ???

1/2 This cab is well-crafted. Aromas and flavors of cassis, mocha and nutmeg. Great structure. Balanced. A smart buy.

Pedroncelli, 2011 Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, Mother Clone Zinfandel.??

1/2 A jammy zinfandel with black fruit, cracked black pepper and mineral. Approachable. Easy drinking. Briary.