Wine of the week: Joel Gott, 2013 California Zinfandel

Wine is essentially a time capsule for each vintage. At least, that’s how Alisa Jacobson sees it.

Jacobson, vice president of winemaking at Joel Gott Wines, is behind the Press Democrat’s wine-of-the-week winner, the Joel Gott, 2013 California Zinfandel at $20.

It’s a racy zin but its bright fruit - black cherry with a streak of cranberry - keeps it in check. This full-bodied zin has notes of underbrush and cracked black pepper. It also has firm tannins and a spicy finish. While it’s not overly complex, it has intriguing layers of flavors and it’s definitely a steal for $20.

“Zinfandel is a thin-skinned variety, which means it’s susceptible to weather especially rain or moisture,” Jacobson said. “The challenge is finding the sweet spot to pick before the fall rains come. That wasn’t a problem this year however!”

The Joel Gott house style, in a word, is balance, Jacobson said.

“We want to create a natural melding of fruit, acid, oak, and alcohol all perfectly balanced so not one thing stands out but instead it’s seamless,” she said.

This varietal is a tasty yin-yang of fruit and spice, Jacobson explained. “Zinfandel is a true California wine that expresses beautiful fruit flavor and rich spiciness. When the wine is made in a balanced style like ours, it’s perfect to have with food or on its own.”

The company has a zin legacy.

“Joel Gott Wines started making zinfandel from inception,” Jacobson said. “Joel grew up in the Amador County foothills where zinfandel is king. The first wine he produced in 1996 was a vineyard-designated zinfandel from Shenandoah Valley. I’m proud to be carrying on the tradition.”

Jacobson began making wine with Joel and his wife Sarah in 2003.

“They were about to have their first child and realized they needed help,” Jacobson said. “I met them both when I was working at (Napa Valley’s) Joseph Phelps just after college at UC Davis. I graduated in 2001 with a viticulture and enology degree.”

Producing great wine requires a lot of pampering in the vineyard and in the winery, she said.

“Bottom line, the wine has to be good for a consumer to keep coming back,” Jacobson said. “You may have a great package or fun label, but if the wine doesn’t show well you won’t have a returning buyer.”