Three worldy Sonoma County restaurants to try

Comforting winter classics have been much on our mind lately, as the weather turns cold(ish) and we can finally wear a wool scarf without sweating. But what's warming our hearts this season might surprise you. From hearty beef stews to jerk chicken tacos and spicy Korean bibimbap, there's a world of winter flavors to explore at three local restaurants we've recently discovered, or re-discovered.

Walter Hansel Wine Bistro, Santa Rosa

Boeuf Bourguignon is the most familiar dish you've never tried. This traditional French stew of slow-braised beef, red wine, pearl onions, bacon and herbs (among half a dozen other ingredients) hails from the Burgundy region but got a popularity boost by Julia Child. Light years beyond your typical beef stew, this simple-yet-complicated recipe can take more than a day to prepare, but with so-worth-it results.

New to the menu at Walter Hansel Wine Bistro, this winter staple gets a California twist with bits of fried kale and fresh mache atop traditional chunks of tender beef and a velvety reduction of red wine, beef stock, caramelized vegetables and angel kisses ($29). The latter is unconfirmed, but I dare you to challenge it.

Also on the revamped bistro menu are De Gaulle-era classics like Coquille St. Jacques (scallops with a white wine truffle cream sauce naughtier than a night at the Moulin Rouge, $29); lobster bisque en croute with brandy and tarragon ($14), and a proper tarte tatin (apples in a flaky crust) with decadent caramel ($7.50). Prices are steep, but the large wine selection (including many of the Walter Hansel wines) is impressive and service is spot-on. Ideal for a romantic splurge. 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 546-6462, walterhanselbistro.com.

Guiso Latin Fusion, Healdsburg

Caribbean meets Salvadorian cuisine at the newly-opened Guiso Latin Fusion in Healdsburg. This jewel box of a restaurant, which was formerly Ravenous, has a handful of tables but miles of flavor. Jamaican jerk chicken with mango and pineapple salsa make for tasty luncheon tacos ($12), along with a Salvadoran take on the Cubano sandwich, with pulled pork marinated in citrus, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard ($13).

Yucca chips accompany most of the lunch specials, with heartier dinner fare like Pescado Con Coco (fish sauteed in coconut ($23) and slow braised pork ribs ($26). Don't miss the pupusas, stuffed with pork, chicken or veggies and topped with snappy curtido ($12), or Elotitos, which are sliced pieces of corn roasted in Jamaican jerk, butter and garlic. They're costly at $8 for just four pieces, but the flavor is astounding.

The tiny kitchen can be slow, but the food is made with lots of love. Save room for the best dish of the day: Quesadillita Con Helado ($8), which is an unlikely dish of rice and cheese bread with vanilla ice cream and hibiscus sauce. Just trust us on this one. 117 North St., Healdsburg, 431-1302, guisolatinfusion.com.

Soban Korean Cuisine, Petaluma

A sizzling pot of rice that continues to cook while you eat it? That's how you spell comfort food in Korean. Meaning 'mixed rice,' Bibimbap is a comforting dish that is literally so hot you can cook an egg on it.

It's a signature of Soban Korean Cuisine in Petaluma. Locals say this recent entrant into the local restaurant scene is as authentic as it gets, with homemade kimchi, pan fried Korean pancakes ($13.95), beef and pork Bulgogi (marinated meats in a spicy sweet sauce, $17.95-18.95), pork neck bone soup called Gamjatang ($14.95) and the bibimbap made in a sizzling stone pot with pickled vegetables, seafood, kimchi, beef or chicken ($12.95-16.95).

We were taken by the Soban Chicken, $9.95, lightly fried and topped with soy sesame glaze that was just as good as a midnight snack as it was right out of the bowl. Korean food fans will be impressed with the six tasty banchan (appetizers) brought to your table that include tastebud awakening fish cakes, sesame soy spinach, kimchi and pickled turnips.

Owners say all of the food is either imported from Korea or locally-sourced, so get ready for some funky flavors (and smells) with this cuisine, but we can promise you'll walk away full. 255 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 796-3112, sobanpetaluma.com.

Still hungry, check out Heather's always-updated food and dining blog, BiteClubEats.com.