Pairings: Winter squash with Russian River gewürztraminer

Our Wine of the Week, Cairdean Vineyards 2014 Russian River Valley Gewürztraminer, is delicate and refined, qualities that begin to express themselves from the moment you open the bottle. As you pour the wine into a glass, it almost seems as if you are filling it with morning sunlight or liquid straw, not wine. Aromas rise immediately, wrapping you in a floral halo. Don't bother trying to identify exactly what flowers you may detect; just enjoy them, as they are fleeting and elusive.

On the palate, the perception of refinement continues. The wine is fully dry, without any suggestion of sweetness. Flavors of citrus, mangosteen, hemp, butter and a hint of coconut swirl around the wine's acidic backbone, which keeps it bright and refreshing.

The wine is perfect for the holiday. It is excellent with potatoes, sweet potatoes, winter squash, chestnuts and pumpkin, and goes well with both the white and dark meat of turkey. It's something you might want to have on hand to enjoy with crab, too, if the season opens at all this year.

Gewürztraminer is an extraordinary match with curries, including turkey curry made from your leftover holiday bird.

For today's recipe, we revisit and revise a longtime favorite, winter squash and roasted garlic puree, here topped with toasted croutons and cheese for a delicious fall gratin.

Winter Squash and Roasted Garlic Gratin

Serves 6 to 8

4 pounds winter squash of choice

2 sprigs of fresh thyme

2 sprigs of sage

— Olive oil

3 garlic bulbs, papery outer skins removed

— Kosher salt

— Black pepper in a mill

4 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoons fresh sage leaves, minced

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

— Whole nutmeg

10-12 baguette slices

¾ cup (3 ounces) grated St. George, Vella Mezzo-Secco or similar cheese

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Use a heavy, sharp knife to cut the squash in half or quarters, depending on its size. (Alternately, drop it on a hard surface; it should break into 3 or 4 pieces.)

Set the squash, cut side up, on a heavy baking sheet and set thyme and sage sprigs on top of each piece. Put the garlic bulbs into a small bowl, drizzle generously with olive oil and turn to coat them well. Set on top of the squash. Season all over with salt and pepper.

Cover lightly with aluminum foil, set on the middle rack of the oven and cook until the squash is very tender when pierced with a fork or a bamboo skewer, about 60 minutes.

Brush the baguette slices with olive oil, set them on a sheet pan and toast, in the oven, until lightly browned on both sides (turn them once). Set aside.

Remove the squash from the oven and let it cool until it is easy to handle. Set aside the garlics and the herb sprigs and use a spoon to scrape out and discard seeds and strings. Scoop out the flesh and pass it through a food mill into a medium bowl. If you do not have a food mill, use a potato ricer or a fork; do not use a food processor.

Set the garlic bulbs on a hard work surface and use the heel of your hand to press out the pulp. Add the pulp to the squash, along with the butter, sage and thyme leaves; add several generous gratings of nutmeg. Mix well, taste and correct for salt and pepper.

Transfer the puree to a deep ovenproof serving dish and arrange the baguette slices on top, overlapping as necessary for them to fit. Scatter the cheese over the top and bake until heated through, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Let rest 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 24 books , including the new 'Good Cook's' series. Email her at michele@saladdresser.com or read her blog, 'Eat This Now,' at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.