Alternatives to Dungeness crab to serve at your North Coast Thanksgiving

If you've got your heart set on Dungeness Crab for Thanksgiving, you may be disappointed to find that it's either not available or so pricey that you can't afford it.

Due to elevated levels of a toxin known as domoic acid found in the crabs, both Oregon and Washington have joined California in delaying the start of the commercial crab season. However, some Dungeness crab deemed safe is being caught by tribal crab fisheries in Grays Harbor, Wash., and some frozen crab is available.

Mike Svedise, a North Coast fisherman and owner of Santa Rosa Seafood, said he has been promised 500 pounds of cooked and chilled crab from Washington state, as well as some high-quality, frozen Dungeness crab from Alaska that has been cooked and processed (head and gills removed) on the boat.

'That's what 90 percent of the crab feeds use,' he said. 'However, I rarely sell frozen crab ... I'm just bringing these in because people are demanding them.'

Both of these crab products will cost between $13.95 and $14.50 a pound, which makes live lobster flown in from Maine a reasonable alternative at about $14 a pound. Lobster can be boiled like a crab, then served with butter and lemon as an appetizer.

Because the Pacific Coast algae bloom has also affected local bivalves, Svedise said he has been bringing in oysters and clams from Washington state and Canada. Give them a traditional twist by preparing Clams Casino (on a half shell with bacon and breadcrumbs) or Oysters Rockefeller (on a half shell with spinach and cheese).

Ari Weiswasser of the Glen Ellen Star suggests making Hangtown Fry, an historic dish that incorporates fried oysters, bacon and eggs. The omelette, dating back to the Gold Rush era, was popularized by the Tadich Grill in San Francisco. Food writer Mark Bittman developed an easy recipe for the fry in his Minimalist column for the New York Times.

Beth Krauss, public relations coordinator for Whole Foods Markets in Northern California, said the markets in Santa Rosa will have fresh crab from Washington state for sale before Thanksgiving, as well as previously frozen Dungeness crab.

As an alternative, she suggested the shrimp, smoked fish and lobster platter or some house-smoked salmon nuggets known as 'salmon candy,' all available in the fresh seafood case.

Mark Dierkhising, chef/owner of Dierk's Parkside Cafe in Santa Rosa, suggested making salmon cakes from some of a wild salmon that is being caught off the coasts of Washington, Oregon and Alaska.

'We've been roasting the salmon and flaking it, and making a salmon cake, just like a crab cake,' he said. 'You could serve them with guacamole and salsa, inside a salad or as a canapé.'