Seasonal pantry: Olio nuovo olive oil arrives in Sonoma County

Olive oil is never better than when it is just pressed. If you've ever had the pleasure of holding a little plate, or even just a small piece of toast, under a stream of new oil as it pours into the world, you understand.

When it first splashes over your palate there's a voluptuous quality that is, perhaps surprisingly, not at all oily or viscous. Breathe in and green aromas fill your senses, as the flavor of olives spreads over your palate, followed by the oil's pleasing bitterness and trail of peppery heat that resonates seductively, guaranteeing that you'll want more.

This is olio nuovo, or new oil. Not that long ago, it wasn't widely known and was enjoyed primarily by those who grew olives for oil and enjoyed some fresh from the press while most of the oil rested in bulk for a few months before being bottled. But as travelers to Italy came back with breathless tales of the delicious fettunta — grilled bread rubbed with garlic and splashed generously with olio nuovo — they had enjoyed at an Italian olive mill, it was just a matter of time before we embraced it. For several years now, California's top olive oil producers have been releasing a bit of olio nuovo just before the winter holidays.

This year, it arrived much sooner.

Like so many crops, olives were ready for harvest earlier than in a typical year. Pressing began in October and, for many, was complete by the beginning of November. We have olio nuovo now and should through the end of the year or a bit longer.

Don't look for olio nuovo in a supermarket or even a specialty shop, as it is typically not distributed. Terra Savia Winery (14160 Mountain House Road, Hopland) has it at the Sebastopol Farmers Market on Sundays and sells it at the mill and winery.

DaVero released its olio nuovo on Nov. 14. It's available in the tasting room at 766 Westside Road, Healdsburg. DaVero hosts its annual The Day After Thanksgiving celebration from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, Nov. 27, with wood-fired pizzas, olio nuovo for tasting and purchase, other nibbles and wines. This year, it's a benefit. A $10 suggested donation and 100 percent of the proceeds form the sale of Pollo Rosso jug wine will benefit the victims of the Valley Fire.

The Olive Press (24724 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, theolivepress.com) recently released its 2015 olio nuovo, made from 100 percent arbequina olives. McEvoy Ranch's olio nuovo was released at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza shop on Nov. 17 and should be available at mcevoyranch.com by the end of November.

Soups present a great canvas for olio nuovo. Here, a simple but delicious white bean soup accents the flavors of the new oil beautifully. Use new oil on most winter soups, especially winter squash, potato, sweet potato and just about any other soup you enjoy at this time of year. Be sure to add it at the last minute as a condiment, and do not stir it into the soup, lest its flavors be eclipsed.

White Bean Soup with Olio Nuovo

Serves 6

1 pound marrowfat beans or other white beans, rinsed, picked over and soaked overnight

1 bay leaf

1 white or yellow onion, cut into small dice

6 garlic cloves, peeled

Kosher salt

6 ounces (1½ cups) freshly grated Estero Gold, Vella Dry Jack, Parmigiano-Reggiano or similar cheese

Black pepper in a mill

Olio nuovo

Drain the beans, rinse them and put them into a large heavy saucepan or a clay bean pot. Cover generously with water, add the bay leaf, set over medium heat and slowly bring to a boil. If using a clay pot, consult the manufacturer's instructions. Reduce the heat, skim off any foam that forms on the surface and continue to cook until the beans soften and begin to give off their aroma.

Add the onion and garlic, season with salt and continue to cook until the beans are very tender and creamy. Add water as needed and do not let the beans scorch.

When the beans are fully tender, let cool for a bit and then purée with an immersion blender until very smooth and creamy. Stir in the cheese, season with several turns of black pepper, taste and correct for salt. Reheat as needed.

Ladle into soup plates, drizzle olio nuovo in concentrate circles over each portion and serve right away.

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This is a pantry pasta, something you should be able to pull together at the last minute without a trip to the market.

Pasta with Garlic, Parsley & Olio Nuovo

Serves 3 to 4

Kosher salt

10 ounces bucatini or other long, round pasta

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

5 or 6 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

Black pepper in a mill

Olio Nuovo of choice

¾ cup homemade bread crumbs, lightly toasted, optional

Chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino, Toscano or Dry Jack cheese

Fill a large pot two-thirds full with water, add a generous tablespoon or two of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water has come to a rolling boil, add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is just done, about 12 to 15 minutes. Drain thoroughly.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small sauté pan set over medium-low heat, add the garlic, and sauté until it is fragrant and just barely turning golden brown. Do not let it burn. Remove from the heat and stir in the pepper flakes.

Put the cooked and drained pasta into a warmed, wide serving bowl; add the garlic mixture and parsley, and toss gently but thoroughly. Season with several generous turns of black pepper and drizzle with olio nuovo until the pasta is sufficiently coated. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, grate cheese over the pasta, toss again, and season with salt. Cover the pasta with a cloth napkin or tea towel to keep it hot.

Serve right away, with the remaining cheese and a grater alongside. Pass the olio nuovo for anyone who would like another splash.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 24 books, including the new 'Good Cook's' series. Email her at michele@saladdresser.com or visit her blog, 'Eat This Now,' at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.