Review: Kinsmoke barbecue in Healdsburg hard to resist Review: Kinsmoke barbecue in Healdsburg hard to resist

The northeast corner of Matheson and Center streets in Healdsburg smells really good these days. Since Kinsmoke opened in October next to the Plaza, the barbecue pit has been smoking away, perfuming the air with meats slow cooked over California oak and cherry wood.

I’m thinking the aroma is part of the reason this casual spot is so busy. It’s happily present even with multi-filter “smog hog” air cleaning systems for the pit outside and stove inside. You walk by, the scent grabs you, and even if you didn’t think you were hungry, you’re drawn in.

It’s a welcome addition to the flourishing Healdsburg dining scene, which boasts exotic specialties like Yucatan-French, Spanish and Greek and, until now, relegated barbecue to just a few country dishes on menus here and there.

In a nod to town’s upscale style, Kinsmoke isn’t a down home place, either, but well groomed, with the former Center Street Deli space completely transformed by trendy chalkboard art; polished wood floors, walls and work counters; gleaming white subway tile; brick accents, and exposed ceiling ducts. Some tables resemble barrels. There are cute rolls of butcher paper on the tables, and the wine list spans nearly three dozen choices from French Domaine de Nizas Rosé ($6/$22) to MacPhail Family Wines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($14/$54), all available by the glass or bottle.

Kinsmoke comes from JC Adams and Brad Barmore, the duo behind Kin in Windsor and former managers with Guy Fieri restaurants. This is more hipster than the family-oriented Kin, and to be sure, the bar section is the popular place to sit while sipping a 32-ounce (yes, you read that right) Lagunitas Brewing Company Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ American pale wheat ale for the refreshing price of $10.

Add in an order of hot, juicy thick-sliced frickles ($3 for a ramekin or $5-$9 for larger portions) dunked in buttermilk ranch, down another beer from the 34+ tap and bottle options, and you’ve got a grand time.

I only wish it weren’t so pricey for entrées, since you need to order pit meats by the full pound.

Most of the food is very good, and the friendly mood is great, with staff offering my group cheerful hellos and “Thanks for visiting,” on a recent weekend.

But good doesn’t warrant paying $23 for a la carte plate of slightly mushy brisket, or $18 for sausage, especially when we order at the counter and our food comes out sans plates on a paper-lined cookie sheet.

Everything here is a la carte, from the bourbon glazed pork chop ($18) to the chicken leg and thigh combo ($15), coffee-rubbed grilled Porterhouse ($30) and three Cajun dusted scallops, meaty and blackened on a little nest of greens ($22).

Once you add in the sides - and you’ll want to add Brussels sprouts sautéed to a caramelized edge with bacon chunks and a dose of black pepper and cayenne spice ($3-$10) - there’s a healthy cha-ching to be considered.

If you love smoky food, you’ll love Kinsmoke. Even with the lovely glistening fat to soak up wood flavors in the charred edge pork shoulder ($18), smoke is the anchor note.

It’s the main flavor in the skin-on dark meat chicken and the ruby red-edged fatty brisket (you need to order it as “fatty,” or you’ll get the too-dry, lean-trim).

The smoke annihilated any sweet-spicy horseradish nuances of the Granny Smith apple slaw on the brisket sandwich ($11), plopped on a plain white bun.

Fortunately, the five homemade sauces are excellent, added as you like from bottles on the tables. I’m usually a dainty sauce dipper, but I drenched my brisket with the vibrant North Carolina vinegar and my pork with the gutsy South Carolina Bourbon Dijon.

Thick mayo-vinegar Alabama white sauce jazzed up our chicken, and we alternated with splashes of sweet barbecue and dark espresso sauce, enjoying the sharp tang throughout.

The ribs, including St. Louis style pork ($11 half rack/$20 full) and beef (served only on Fridays and Saturdays, $16/$29) need no dressing.

Thick and tender, they’re also a pleasing value, even better paired with baked, thin-sauced mac ‘n’ cheese ($4-$11) and hushpuppies boasting bold corn flavor and a crisp crust for dipping in mildly spiced remoulade ($4-$11).

And while there’s no dessert here, a petite, sweet corn muffin ($1.25) is a fine fill-in.

Fair warning - I overheard an order taker telling another customer that the kitchen was running low on ribs and brisket, and recommending that he always call ahead to make sure a preferred meat is available.

For such a busy place, I guess you could say that’s right on ‘cue.

The northeast corner of Matheson and Center streets in Healdsburg smells really good these days. Since Kinsmoke opened in October next to the Plaza, the barbecue pit has been smoking away, perfuming the air with meats slow cooked over California oak and cherry wood.

I’m thinking the aroma - it’s happily present even with multi-filter “smog hog” air cleaning systems for the pit outside and stove inside - is part of the reason this casual spot is so busy. You walk by, the scent grabs you, and even if you didn’t think you were hungry, you’re drawn in.

It’s a welcome addition to the ever-burgeoning Healdsburg dining scene, which until now boasted exotic specialties like Yucatan-French, Spanish and Greek, with just a few country ‘cue dishes on menus here and there.

In a nod to town’s upscale style, this isn’t a downhome place, either, but well groomed, with the former Center Street Deli space completely transformed by trendy chalkboard art, polished wood on the floors, walls and work counters, gleaming white subway tile, brick accents and exposed ceiling ducts. Some tables resemble barrels; there are cute rolls of butcher paper on the tables; and the wine list spans nearly three dozen choices, all available by the glass or bottle, from French Domaine de Nizas Rosé ($6/$22) to MacPhail Family Wines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($14/$54).

Kinsmoke comes from JC Adams and Brad Barmore, the duo behind Kin in Windsor and former managers with Guy Fieri restaurants. This is a more hipster operation than the family-oriented Kin, and to be sure, the bar section is the popular place to sit, sipping a 32 ounce (yes, you read that right, Big Gulp fans) Lagunitas Brewing Company Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ American pale wheat ale for the refreshing price of $10.

Add in an order of hot, juicy thick-sliced frickles ($3 for a ramekin or $5-$9 depending on portion size) dunked in buttermilk ranch, down another beer from the 34+ tap and bottle options, and you’ve got a grand time.

I only wish it weren’t so pricey for entrées, since you need to order pit meats by the full pound.

Most of the food is very good, and the friendly mood is great, with staff offering my group cheerful hellos and thanks-for-visiting on a recent weekend.

But “good” doesn’t warrant paying $23 for a la carte plate of slightly mushy brisket, or $18 for sausage, especially when we order at the counter and our food comes out sans-plates on a paper-lined cookie sheet.

Everything here is a la carte, from the bourbon glazed pork chop ($18), to the chicken leg and thigh combo ($15), coffee-rubbed grilled Porterhouse ($30), and three Cajun dusted scallops, meaty and blackened on a little nest of greens ($22). Once you add in the sides - and you’ll want to, for Brussels sprouts sautéed to a caramelized edge with bacon chunks and a dose of black pepper and cayenne spice ($3-$10) - there’s a healthy cha-ching to be considered.

If you love smoky food, you’ll love Kinsmoke. Even with the lovely glistening fat to soak up wood flavors in the charred edge pork shoulder ($18), smoke is the anchor note. It’s the main flavor in the ruby-red edged fatty brisket (you need to order it as “fatty,” or you’ll get the too-dry, lean-trim) and the skin-on dark meat chicken. The smoke annihilated any sweet-spicy horseradish nuances of the Granny Smith apple slaw on the brisket sandwich ($11), too, plopped on a plain white bun.

Fortunately, the five homemade sauces are excellent, added as you like from bottles on the tables. I’m usually a dainty sauce dipper, but I drenched my brisket with the vibrant North Carolina vinegar, and my pork with the gutsy South Carolina Bourbon Dijon. Thick mayo-vinegar Alabama white sauce jazzed up our chicken, and we alternated with splashes of sweet barbecue and dark espresso sauce, enjoying the sharp tang throughout.

The ribs, including St. Louis style pork ($11 half rack/$20 full) and beef (served only on Fridays and Saturdays, $16/$29) need no dressing. Thick and tender, they’re also a pleasing value, even better paired with baked, thin-sauced mac ‘n’ cheese ($4-$11) and hushpuppies boasting bold corn flavor and a crisp crust for dipping in mildly spiced remoulade ($4-$11). And while there’s no dessert here, a petite, sweet corn muffin ($1.25) is a fine fill-in.

Fair warning - I overheard an order taker telling another customer that the kitchen was running low on ribs and brisket, and recommending he always call ahead to make sure a preferred meat is available. For such a busy place, though, I guess you could say that’s right on ‘cue.

Carey Sweet’s restaurant reviews appear every other week in Sonoma Life.