I couldn’t wait to get to Esalen on the Big Sur coast. I love hot springs, and though I wasn’t staying there, I’d heard that nonresidents could enter the tubs of warm mineral water, perched atop impossibly steep cliffs with a panoramic view of the Pacific, after 1 o’clock.
So it was with unbridled anticipation that I approached the 27-acre Big Sur retreat center one afternoon years ago. That’s when I saw the sign. The general public was welcome after 1 a.m., for a couple of hours in the middle of the night.
It would take me many more years to get through Esalen’s gates, but I finally made it when I was asked to teach at a workshop hosted by the Sun, a literary magazine.
It was worth the wait. Some of Esalen’s facilities are perched on ledges carved into the Big Sur cliffs, and the baths are among those. After a brief walk through the organic vegetable garden, I shed my clothes in the bath house and plunged into the warm tubs, long thought to have healing properties.
The sun was close to setting, gulls cawed, and condors, back from the brink of extinction, soared high overhead. At last, I thought, at last, as my tensions and worries dissolved into the 104-degree water.
The roots of Esalen date to 1869, when Thomas Slate, pained by severe arthritis, found the hot springs at Esalen to be healing and revitalizing. In the 1880s, according to Esalen’s website, he homesteaded the property and opened Slates Hot Springs, the first business to target tourists in Big Sur.
Henry Murphy, a Salinas physician who delivered John Steinbeck, bought the property in 1910, and in 1962, his grandson Michael Murphy co-founded Esalen with former Stanford classmate Dick Price as a spiritual retreat center and locus for lifelong learning.
Murphy was a student at Stanford during the 1950s and was on track to become a psychiatrist, but he gave that up to live in an ashram in India when he had a vision of what his family’s coastside property could become.
“I asked my grandmother (in the late ’50s) if I could take over the property, and she said no,” Murphy said in a phone interview from his home in Mill Valley. “She was afraid I would give it to the Hindus.”
Hunter S. Thompson, who later became known for his book “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas,” was the caretaker in 1961.
“The scene was totally out of control,” Murphy said. “Hunter was just 21. He was fully armed with automatic weapons. A gang of gay guys (that he was harassing at the baths) were trying to kill him. They tried to throw him over the cliff one night. … It’s a miracle no one was killed in those days.”
That’s when Murphy gained control of the property. “My father prevailed upon his mother and said, ‘We’ve got to give it to Michael now; otherwise we’re all gonna end up in jail.’ ”
Often dismissed as misfit mystics, Murphy and Price helped launch the human potential movement, suggesting that meditation, yoga and deep psychological inquiry could lead to richer lives and more harmonious relations.
Murphy said the vision he and Price developed “turned out to be fertile in ways we didn’t anticipate.” For years they were ridiculed, but their timing was good.
If you go
From Santa Rosa it takes about four hours to drive to Esalen. Allow more time during commute hours.
Weekend workshops start at $405 per person, which includes the course, food and sleeping in a communal area in a sleeping bag. A private room for a couple is $730 per person. Seven-day workshops start at $900 and cost $1,700 per person for a couple in a private room.
For more information and listings of upcoming courses, see esalen.org.