Pairing: Classic Provence pizza with Geyserville ‘Christo’

Our Wine of the Week, Marietta Cellars Christo Lot Number 2 ($20), is a blend of syrah, petite sirah, grenache and viognier, a charming powerhouse with alcohol approaching 15.5 percent.

In the glass, the wine is as dark as the midnight sky or nearly so, with a deep garnet hue shimmering around the rim. Aromas of black pepper, dried lavender and sweet spices draw you in, and with your first sip you are awash in bold flavors of blueberry, blackberry, dried herbs and cool topsoil.

Tannins form a foundation that buoys these flavors, which linger enticingly on the wine's long finish.

On first sip, I thought of that New Orleans classic, grits and debris, debris being the bits and pieces of roast beef or prime rib left in the pan and on the platter, mixed with pan juices. It's an exuberant match, if you happen to have debris in the fridge.

The wine is a natural with all manner of beef, especially stews and daubes, pot roasts and braised shanks. It is also among the best choices to pair with venison. You'll enjoy it with braised winter squashes, French onion soup and roasted root vegetables, too. Should you be inspired to make poutine, Canada's extravaganza of French fries, beef gravy and cheese curds, you'll enjoy this wine alongside.

For today's recipe, we're going to the south of France, near these varietals' homeland, for the classic pizza of Provence, pissaladiere. If you buy puff pastry instead of making it yourself, it is easy to make and absolutely delicious.

Pissaladiere

Serves up to 10 as an appetizer

2 pounds yellow onions, cut into very thin rounds

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons butter

1 bay leaf

8 oil-packed anchovy fillets

3-4 garlic cloves, minced

Black pepper in a mill

All-purpose white flour

1 sheet (8 ounces) commercial puff pastry, such as Pepperidge Farms brand, thawed and chilled

¼ cup black olives, such as Niçoise, Gaeta or oil-cured

Put the sliced onions into a large bowl and use your fingers to separate the layers and fluff them for maximum volume. Season with salt and toss gently.

Put the butter into a large heavy pot set over low heat, add the onions, the bay leaf and ¼ cup water and cook very gently until the onions are limp, fragrant and sweet, about 40 to 45 minutes. Stir now and then and do not let the onions brown.

Mince four of the anchovy fillets and stir them into the onions when they are almost ready. Cut the remaining four fillets in half lengthwise.

Remove the onions from the heat and discard the bay leaf. Season generously with black pepper and let cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Lightly flour a clean work surface. Set the puff pastry on top of the flour and roll it out into a 16-inch-by-12-inch rectangle. Working quickly, lift the puff pastry onto a baking sheet and fold in the outer ½-inch to form a border.

Spread the onion mixture over the pastry, leaving the border uncovered. Add the anchovy fillets, top with olives and set on the middle rack of the oven. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the edge of the pastry is lightly browned and puffed.

Remove from the oven, cool slightly, cut into squares and enjoy warm.

Michele Anna Jordan is author of the new 'Good Cook's' series. Email her at michele@saladdresser.com or visit her blog at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.