Sonoma County, where life is a cabernet

If red is your wine of choice, it's likely that you are well acquainted with cabernet sauvignon. It's the nation's top-selling red wine and is Sonoma County's leading red wine grape, covering about 20 percent of all vineyard acres.

Stylistically, it is an all occasions wine, bold enough to stand up to the heartiest meals but flavorful enough to pair with cheese or drink alone. Cabernet sauvignon also grows well in Northern California's warmest regions, although it didn't catch hold here until the 1970s.

Perhaps no other red wine grape holds as much sway worldwide as cabernet sauvignon. It is held in high esteem in such far flung wine spots as the Bordeaux region of France; the northern tier of the Italian peninsula; Australia's Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Margaret River; and, of course, Northern California.

Since the 1970s, cabernet sauvignon has generated favorable buzz in the Napa Valley, Sonoma's Alexander Valley and various micro-climate pockets where cabernet ripens without too much close attention by growers.

Late budding and ripening, cabernet sauvignon needs warm growing conditions so as not to take on the green bell pepper characteristic that is no longer fashionable, if it ever was.

When cabernet sauvignon was planted in the cool rich soils of northern Monterey County, where lettuce thrives, the wine had such a strong case of the veggies that it was mostly undrinkable.

Cabernet sauvignon is eminently adaptable so long as there is a fair amount of heat to ripen.

The aromas and flavors are easily recognizable no matter where the grape is planted.

Pinot noir has a more enticing perfume, syrah is more sensuous, and merlot is known for its plump fruit, while cabernet sauvignon is capable of offering all of these components, combined with deep blackberry and blackcurrant aromas and flavors.

Problems crop up, though, when cabernet sauvignon gets too much warmth. The wine becomes jammy, more like zinfandel than cabernet.

Gravelly soils that warm up fast and hold the heat are ideal for growing cabernet.

A prime example of gravelly soil is Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou , in the Medoc district of Bordeaux. 'Beaucaillou,' which means 'beautiful pebble,' is a reference to the chateau's pebbles and smooth stones that cover the vineyard, nurturing the cabernet sauvignon .

Similar gravel soils can be found in parts of the Napa Valley and Sonoma's Alexander Valley.

So it's no accident that Bordeaux is ground zero in the on-going speculation about the origin of cabernet sauvignon. One theory reaches back in time to biturica, a grape named by Pliny the Elder to honor the tribal Bituriges, who founded Bordeaux.

Petite Vidure

Fast forward to the 18th century and cabernet sauvignon has now become known in Bordeaux as Petite Vidure, posing some confusion with the then valued Bordeaux carmenere grape, which was known locally as Grande Vidure.

Later that century, a red grape named cabernet sauvignon first made its appearance in Bordeaux, bringing to an end the confusion of naming.

Not until the 1880s did cabernet sauvignon first show up in California vineyards, although the variety didn't become prominent until the early 1970s, mainly in Napa.

By the late 20th century, science had brought closure to the mystery of cabernet sauvignon's origin.

In 1997, scientists at UC Davis used DNA profiling to prove that cabernet sauvignon's parents are the red cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc, a white grape.

Considering smell and taste, cabernet's parentage made sense. When a little green, under-ripe cabernet sauvignon has the same herbal grassiness of sauvignon blanc, while at ripeness, it can show the intense raspberry/blueberry notes of cabernet franc.

As it turns out, then, the Bordeaux growers were on to something long before DNA identified the origin of wine grapes.

Premier foursome

Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and petit verdot have for decades formed the quintet of premier Bordeaux red grapes that has become known as the 'Bordeaux blend.'

Bordeaux vintners also understood that, on its own, cabernet sauvignon can be dominant and assertive, so adding small percentages of one or more of the other Bordeaux grapes provides harmony and more interesting complexity not possible in a straight cabernet sauvignon.

To be called by a grape name, such as cabernet sauvignon, U.S. law requires a minimum of 75% of the named variety. Vintners in other parts of the world follow what is commonly known as the '85% Rule.'

Straight or as part of a blend, cabernet sauvignon is a great choice with food. A classic match is cabernet sauvignon with beef, roasted, grilled or in stews.

Cabernet sauvignon blended with a high percentage of merlot marries well with lamb or roast chicken. If there is a little cabernet left at the end of the meal, or if you have a second bottle, try it with a wedge of cheese.

Cheese usually makes a wine taste better, a truism that is the basis for the old wine sales axiom of 'Buy on bread and sell on cheese.'

Youngish cabernet sauvignon stands up nicely to ripe Brie or Camembert, or even an aged goat cheese. Aged cabernet will taste better with Gouda or Fontina or other milder cheeses. Experiment and see what match you like.

There is, however, the question of tannin, an element extracted from grape skins during fermentation, and its puckerish quality, not unlike the tactile sensation you get from a sip of black tea. Young cabernet has more pucker power than an aged one, so young cabernet might overwhelm certain more subtly-flavored dishes.

That's a good reason not to drink a young cabernet the day you buy it, but allow the wine to age a year or two.

Sticker shock

Buying cabernet sauvignon today can be like trench warfare. Relatively young top-end Bordeaux will set you back $75 to more than $100, as will Napa's so-called 'cult cabernets.'

To avoid the sticker shock, look for Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux such as Ch. Fourcas Hosten, Ch. Greysac and Ch. Coufran.

Affordable Northern California cabernets can be found from Sonoma Valley, Mendocino and Lake County.

The bottom line then is to buy cabernet sauvignon when it is young and more affordable, but drink it when it is older and more enjoyable.

Gerald D. Boyd is a Santa Rosa-based wine writer.