Berger: Winemaker Doug Nalle lauds the Euro model

For the last two decades, many California wineries have slowly moved into a new phase of wine making style. These wines differ radically from the style that fueled the state’s image for greatness four decades ago.

This phase in California’s quest to become the world’s greatest contributor to wine’s modern era has taken the form of higher alcohol, more concentration, and an emphasis on richness and power.

As such, many of the wines we have seen in the last 20 years are mere parodies of the more visible and iconic styles of three and four decades ago.

From rudimentary beginnings in the 1870s, California wine making leaped into world class status after a handful of upstart young wineries scored better than some high-image reds and whites from two of France’s most prestigious district in a 1976 blind tasting.

From that lofty victory, and combined with number-supported praise from many wine writers, a new style eventually was created to make the point that California could do better than the historic wine quality leaders in Europe.

The most important era for the state’s vinous image began about 1972 with the founding of many small, adventurous Northern California entrepreneurial wineries and their wine makers who had been classically trained to make European-styled wines of balance and food-oriented structure. These were the wines that defeated the French.

The latest phase, which seems to have captured the fancy of many Americans (some of whom do not know the first thing about the classic European models), has been with us long enough for us to realize that these more modern wines generally are not for dinner; they’re for walking around or sipping at a beach party.

It has been a sad period for those who had classical training and wanted to make more elegant table wines that carried a varietal stamp and a taste profile best paired with food.

UC Davis is the school that educated many of the greatest proponents of this more reined-in classical style. Many of Davis’ graduates of the time eventually wound up making powerful wines in the mode of the 1990s and beyond for larger wineries.

It was a style of wine that most marketing departments desired since the wines sold for more money than better structured wines.

Only a few stalwarts of the old-school continued stubbornly to make wines in the Euro model.

Of all the graduates from Davis who joined the wine making ranks in the mid 1970s, only a handful remain committed to making a statement based on lower alcohol and higher acid.

Their goal is to make wine that’s more sublime than a two by four upside the noggin.

I met last week with Doug Nalle, one of those superb wine makers who brought a 1970s ethic and enthusiasm for European-style wine making to his own project.

Unlike some of his classmates, he did not remain an employee of a larger winery making fat, “luscious” wines.

Nalle struck out independently with a small family owned project with his wife, Lee, and later their son, Andrew.

For me any meeting that includes a taste of some Nalle wines is a joy since I know the result will be to take a trip back 25 years. Nalle wines appeal less to number mongers and more to old-world purists.

Nalle’s latest efforts can only be termed exemplary - even if a few people who seek more explosiveness don’t get what’s afoot.

Of all the latest releases, the one I prefer most is 2013 Henderlong Estate Zinfandel from the Dry Creek Valley ($45). The raspberry and spice components clearly mark this most varietal effort as an American classic, with French oak framing the beautiful fruit, and terrific acidity.

Those who prefer California fruit and a Beaune mid- palate will appreciate Nalle’s 2013 Pinot Noir from the Hopkins River Ranch in Russian River Valley ($45).

The exciting wine’s sour cherry aroma and bright yet slightly more delicate mid-palate will deliver absolute joy when paired with salmon.

Perhaps the most surprising of all the wines is a 2013 cabernet sauvignon/merlot ($55), which is a candidate for best Sonoma County cabernet, with it’s excellent acidity and cellar potential.

All Nalle wines now are made by Andrew, who has happily adopted his father’s passion for structured wine.

Of the cabernet, Doug remarked, “this is old-school!” to which Andrew just nodded and smiled.

Thankfully the past lives vibrantly here with a few holdout wineries.

Sonoma County resident Dan Berger publishes “Vintage Experiences,” a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com.