Seasonal pantry: Make your own mayonnaise

Love it or hate it, mayonnaise is one of the world’s classic mother sauces, the cold emulsion upon which dozens of other sauces and condiments rely as their base. We think of mayonnaise as having its roots in French cuisine, but if you dig a deeper you find that it is actually Spanish in origin.

In the United States, mayonnaise is both loved and reviled, considered essential in some homes and all but banned in other kitchens. At Katz’s Deli in Manhattan, the menu includes the warning, “Don’t even think about asking for mayonnaise,” positioned near the listing for its famous pastrami sandwiches.

As summer approaches, it’s a good time to reassess our relationship with mayonnaise, consider commercial brands and revisit making mayonnaise at home, which is quite easy.

When it comes to commercial brands, Best Foods is the best you’ll find and the easiest to perk up with a couple of easy additions.

It’s the best mayonnaise to use in deviled eggs, egg salad, creamy potato salad and creamy coleslaw. It’s also considered essential to fans of the BLT, especially for the inaugural sandwich of the year.

To enliven Best Foods mayonnaise, put a cup of it into a medium mixing bowl. Add 1 or 2 pressed cloves of garlic, the juice of half a lemon, a pinch of two of salt and 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Whisk it together until smooth, taste again, and correct for salt and acid. To make an herb mayonnaise, mince 2 tablespoons of fresh herbs - basil, cilantro, Italian parsley, sage, thyme - and fold them in after correcting for salt and acid.

One of the most important things to consider when making mayonnaise at home is the weather or, specially, the temperature. It can be hard to create and maintain a stable emulsion by hand in hot weather.

During those times it is best to make mayonnaise or any other cold emulsion in a food processor.

Classic Mayonnaise, with Variations

Makes about 1¼ cups

1 large or jumbo egg yolk

- Generous pinch of kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice or white wine vinegar, plus more to taste

1 cup mild olive oil

Put the egg yolk into a medium mixing bowl, season with salt, and whisk until very smooth and thick.

Add the lemon juice or vinegar and mix again.

Begin adding the olive oil a few drops at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition. As the emulsion forms, gradually increase the quantity of oil you add to a small but steady drizzle.

Taste and correct for salt and acid as needed. If the mayonnaise is too thick for your tastes, thin with 1 or 2 teaspoons of water. Use immediately or refrigerate, covered, for up to 4 days.

Variations:

Mustard Mayonnaise: After making the mayonnaise, stir in 2 tablespoons of your favorite mustard.

Use on grilled chicken and grilled salmon salad and sandwiches.

Olive Mayonnaise: Stir 2 tablespoons of commercial or homemade olive tapenade into the mayonnaise. Use on sandwiches, with steamed or boiled artichokes, and with grilled salmon.

Harissa Mayonnaise: Stir 2 teaspoons commercial or homemade harissa paste into the finished mayonnaise, along with 1 tablespoon each chopped fresh cilantro and chopped Italian parsley.

Taste and balance as needed for salt and acid. Use on sausage sandwiches and with grilled fish.

True aioli - basically, garlic mayonnaise - includes a lot of garlic. Versions that call for one or even a few cloves have been edited for the so-called American palate, which has a reputation around the world for being timid about flavors.

If you want the real thing, with its powerful pungency, this is the recipe to use.

It is traditionally served with a meal known as Grand Aioli, a spring extravaganza in the south of France that includes fresh vegetables, hard-boiled eggs and either poached salt cod or stewed octopus.

Aioli is also delicious with French fries, roasted Padrons or Shishitos, roasted new potatoes and dozens of other dishes.

Traditional Aioli

Makes about 2½ cups

1 large or 2 medium garlic bulbs, cloves separated and peeled

- Kosher salt

2 large or jumbo egg yolks

- Pinch of ground hot pepper, such as piment d’Espelette, hot paprika or cayenne

2-3 teaspoons hot water, as needed

½ lemon, as needed

Set the garlic cloves on a clean work surface and use the flat side of a broad knife to crush them one at a time.

Put the crushed cloves in a suribachi or large mortar, sprinkle with salt, and use a sturdy wooden pestle to grind and pound them into a paste.

When the garlic is nearly liquified, add the egg yolks and pinch of ground pepper, and mix until very smooth and very thick.

Use a small rubber spatula to remove any garlic paste that clings to the wooden pestle, then set the pestle aside and switch to a whisk, preferably a balloon whisk.

Begin adding the olive oil a few drops at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition.

As the emulsion forms, gradually increase the quantity of oil to a small but steady drizzle. If the aioli seems too stiff - it should be smooth, creamy and thick, but not stiff - mix in a little of the hot water to loosen it just slightly.

Cover and let rest for about 15 minutes, and then taste the aioli. If there is any bitterness or if it tastes flat, squeeze the juice of the lemon near the edge of the bowl and sprinkle a few pinches of salt into the pool of juice.

Agitate the bowl gently so that the salt dissolves, and then whisk the aioli until smooth.

Cover and refrigerate until 30 minutes before serving. Use immediately or refrigerate, covered, for up to two days.

Michele Anna Jordan is author of the new “Good Cook’s” series. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com and visit her blog at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.