Take a Sunday drive in west Sonoma County

Just 45 minutes from Santa Rosa is the hamlet of Jenner, a tiny seaside village where the Russian River meets the mighty Pacific Ocean, where seals haul out on sandbars, and where eagles cut through the early morning mist and dive into the estuary in search of salmon.

It's another world out here, and yet it's just a 45-minute drive from Santa Rosa, an hour from Petaluma. Which makes Jenner - an old lumber town that helped provide the timber used to rebuild San Francisco after the 1906 earthquake - the ideal starting point for a day trip in western Sonoma County.

A perfect day can begin at dawn in Jenner and move comfortably down Highway 116 to Duncans Mills, Monte Rio and Guerneville. There's natural beauty, local history, quirky landmarks, unique shops, rodeos and, next weekend, even an annual gathering of historical reenactors.

Somehow Jenner has managed to stay tiny, but in terms of population it's hard to say how small. If you approach it from the south, the sign reads “Pop. 107,” but if you come from the north you'll see another sign on Highway 1 reading “Pop. 170.”

Jenner is the place to start a day trip because bald eagles nest nearby. Two adults and a juvenile are most likely to appear just after sunrise.

The eagles aren't the only predators gorging on the salmon and steelhead in the estuary. A colony of up to 300 harbor seals feast on the fish if they get the chance.

The ideal viewpoint for watching the seals is a broad turnout three-quarters of a mile north of Jenner, on the ocean side of Highway 1, just before the sign reading “Fort Ross 11.”

Bring binoculars and watch the seals bob in the sea or sun themselves on a sandbar. Otters may also make a cameo appearance. It's a magically unspoiled wildlife viewing area as whales migrate along the coast, and pelicans and osprey often fish just offshore.

If you didn't bring binoculars, stop in at the Sonoma Coast Visitors Center, across the street from the Jenner Inn, where you can borrow some for free.

Jenner by the Sea Gifts next door stocks the typical seaside trinkets: shells, replica glass fishing floats, carved wooden boxes and salt-water taffy.

A few steps south is the popular Cafe Aquatica (10439 Highway 1), with well-brewed coffee drinks and a lawn area that often hosts musicians.

It's a fine place to relax on a Sunday. The sound of tumbling waves in the distance is the perfect accompaniment to the fresh pastries and cappuccino, made even better when an acoustic guitar player is entertaining everyone.

One way to become more immersed in the natural splendor is to rent a kayak to explore the estuary. Early morning is the best time to kayak because it's so calm and not windy, says Royce Gitchell of WaterTreks EcoTours, “the kayak guy,” as he's known in these parts. Rates start at $35 for two hours for a single kayak, $70 for a double.

Another 19th-century lumber town, Duncans Mills, is the ideal place to spend the afternoon. An old rail station has been carefully restored to the way it looked a century ago when narrow gauge tracks ran from Cazadero down to Marin County. Rodeo riders gather monthly for riding and roping competitions (info@russianriverrodeo.org) and July 16-17, Civil War Days fans will come to reenact historic battles (civilwardays.net).

To refuel before exploring the town, stop in at Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery for some java and a cinnamon roll or bear claw. Brunch at the heralded Cape Fear Cafe is terrific, too.

But Duncans Mills' central gathering place on Sunday afternoon is clearly the Blue Heron.

“Look around at the nature here,” exclaimed Christine Canellis of Cazadero while enjoying a beer and some lunch at the restaurant. “It's just gorgeous.”

Sunday afternoons are a popular gathering time at the Blue Heron as bands take the stage and people line up for succulent barbecued oysters on the back deck. There are no strangers here. Most people know each other, and they welcome visitors with easy conversation and unforced smiles.

Across Highway 116 is a constellation of intriguing shops with one-of-a-kind items, from the colorful alpaca shawls (very reasonably priced) at Worldly Goods to the astonishing selection of tea blends at Mr. Trombly's Tea.

The teas include Sweet Ginger Brown with strawberry; Slimming Elixir with mate, coriander, cardamom, licorice and peppermint; and Pineapple Mimosa. You may have to add sparkling wine to that one.

You can sample whatever tea has just been brewed and browse the selection of kettles, teapots and metal strainers that make brewing one's own tea a snap.

For those who want to keep exploring, there's the Rio Theater in Monte Rio, with classic films and an inviting outdoor grill that's famed for its hot dogs.

Or hike among the towering coast redwoods of Armstrong Woods just north of Guerneville. Or taste sparkling wine at Korbel, a five-minute drive east of Guerneville on River Road.

Trying to squeeze everything into a single day is a stretch, which is why so many visitors, and even some locals, book a room and make a weekend of it.

Michael Shapiro is author of “A Sense of Place: Great Travel Writers Talk About Their Craft, Lives, and Inspiration.” He writes about travel and entertainment for magazines and The Press Democrat.