The heart of the California Central Coast is a mere four hours south of San Francisco, with stunning seaside villages like Cambria, Morro Bay, and Avila Beach. But it also is home to a remarkable cool-climate wine country that, to date, has flown largely under the radar.
For wine aficionados and casual tasters alike, it’s a discovery worth making. A leisurely road trip down Highway 1 through Big Sur Country is a soothing way to set the mood and decompress before entering the realm of the Middle Kingdom, where freeways, traffic jams and maddening crowds are nonexistent.
The northern gateway is Hearst Castle, reposing in storybook fashion on a Santa Lucia mountaintop a mile above calving sea lions, cavorting otters and migrating whales that scoot along the San Simeon Coastline.
Castle by the sea
Hearst Castle, operated today by the California State Parks, was the one time mega-estate of newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst. Plan to spend a half day touring the castle and walking on San Simeon State Beach, directly across Highway One from the Hearst Castle entrance.
Then turn your attention to the Hearst Ranch Winery a few yards down the lane from the park entrance, owned by Steve Hearst (William’s grandson) and his partner, Jim Saunders. The tasting room is situated in the creaky wood-floor circa-1850s Sebastian General Store that, in its infancy, catered to whalers.
In its current incarnation, you’ll find a superb selection of Hearst wines utilizing Central Coast’s finest grapes, from chardonnay to tempranillo, locally crafted olive oils and an array of items to nosh on, including killer burgers.
Ten miles south the artsy community of Cambria, akin to a mini-Carmel, features an array of fine-art galleries and a diversity of dining options from casual to classy. Not to be missed is Moonstone Beach with rambling bluff-top boardwalks and an array of architecturally enticing seafront inns and motels.
The entire coastal realm is defined and delineated by the Santa Lucia Mountain range that blocks the sometimes scorching summertime heat in the interior valleys, and moderates wintertime coastal temperatures.
On the seafront side of this range you will find San Luis Obispo Wine Country. It is California’s coolest winegrowing growing region, situated south of San Luis Obispo, where the vineyards are just 5 miles from the ocean on average.
Here in the adjoining Edna and Arroyo Grande valleys, some of the world’s finest chardonnay and pinot noir vines are nurtured. Aromatic whites and Rhone varieties also thrive in SLO Wine Country.
The cool-climate grapes grown here are so coveted that in addition to berries processed locally, untold truckloads head north at harvest time to the Santa Cruz Mountains and Napa/Sonoma vintners.
Back in 1880, a visionary pioneer planted a few acres of zinfandel in the upper Arroyo Grande Valley. Even though the vines were abandoned for decades, they were rediscovered and revived by winemaker Bill Greenough in the mid-1970s.
Today those 135-year-old vines produce incredibly flavorful and zesty wine that is made by Greenough’s son, Tom, and poured at Greenough’s Saucelito Canyon Winery tasting room, located in Edna Valley a couple miles south of San Luis Obispo.
Odds are excellent that when you stop in for a tasting at one of the wineries, you will likely meet and visit with the owners, or their sons and daughters. Many of the families have been in the business for decades.
If you go
Hearst Castle and San Simeon State Park for beach adventures and overnight camping, hearstcastle.org
Hearst Castle, 750 Hearst Castle Road, San Simeon; San Simeon State Park & Campground, 500 San Simeon Creek Road, Cambria
San Luis Obispo Wine Country Associatio, a collective of 30 coastal cool-climate wineries, slowine.com
Hearst Ranch Winery Tasting Room, 442 San Simeon Road, San Simeon, (805) 927-4100, hearstranchwinery.com
Saucelito Canyon Vineyard, 3080 Biddle Ranch Road, San Luis Obispo, (805) 543-2111, saucelitocanyon.com
Wolff Vineyards, 6238 Orcutt Road, San Luis Obispo, (805) 781-0448, wolffvineyards.com
Laetitia Vineyard & Winery, 453 Laetitia Vineyard Drive, Arroyo Grande, (805) 481-1772
Filipponi Ranch Cellars, 1850 Calle Joaquin, San Luis Obispo, (805) 903-3567
Places to Stay:
Dolphin Bay Resort & Spa, 2727 Shell Beach Road, Pismo Beach, (805) 773-4300, TheDolphinBay.com
Granada Hotel & Bistro, 1126 Morro St., San Luis Obispo, (805) 544-9100
Sycamore Mineral Springs, 1215 Avila Beach Drive, San Luis Obispo, (805) 595-7302
Avila La Fonda, 101 San Miguel St., Avila Beach, (805) 595-1700
El Colibri Hotel, elcolibrihotel.com, 5620 Moonstone Beach Drive, Cambria, (805) 924-3003
Fogcatcher Inn, 6400 Moonstone Beach Drive, Cambria, (805) 927-1400, fogcatcherinn.com