There's a lot to like about Ferrer Blanc de Noir

Our Wine of the Week, Gloria Ferrer Non-Vintage Carneros Blanc de Noir ($20), has many appealing qualities.

First, you can?t ignore its price, which moves it out of the special-occasion-only category, where so many people relegate sparkling wines, to something within reach at least a bit more frequently.

The wine is also pretty to the eye, with a scarlet blush that hints at the pinot noir that accounts for much of the blend.

The color has been intensified by the addition of a bit of rose to the original cuvee.

On the palate, this sparkler is both complex and balanced, with layers of flavor that unfold in pretty succession. First, there are the bubbles, of course, or mousse, in winespeak.

There is a softness and creaminess to this mousse, a richness that carries the flavors of red fruit, especially sweet strawberry and ripe plum that rise above a foundation of earthy yeast and the suggestion of lightly toasted bread.

One of the joys of this and similar sparklers is that you can enjoy them with almost anything at all.

I am aware that not everyone agrees with this but I have yet to find anything that does not welcome a glass of sparkling wine alongside. Enjoying a simple sandwich of creme fraiche and sliced radishes on sourdough bread?

A glass of this Blanc de Noir alongside is the perfect accompaniment, especially if you are indulging at the end of the day. Scrambled eggs on a leisurely Sunday morning? Go ahead, open a bottle.

Sparklers are particularly good with rich foods, including fondue, pate and risotto, because the bubbles burst through the richness to tickle the palate with each sip, leaving you refreshed and eager for the next bite.

For today?s pairing, I?ve adapted a recipe from a new book, ?Wichcraft,? that recently crossed my desk.

Tom Colicchio, who wrote the book with Sisha Ortuzar, founded New York?s Craft restaurant; he and his co-author have founded a chain of ?Wichcraft? sandwich shops in New York, San Francisco and Las Vegas.

I?ve long been a fan of egg salad sandwiches and this one caught my eye as a perfect match with this lovely Blanc de Noir.

Egg Salad Sandwich with Caviar

Makes 2 to 4 servings

4 extra-large eggs, preferably organic free-range

2 tablespoons minced celery

1 tablespoon minced onion

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons freshly snipped chives, plus a bit more garnish

?Kosher salt

?White pepper in a mill

? to ? best-quality white wine vinegar, such as Vinaigre de Banyuls

1 teaspoon minced fresh chervil, plus a bit more for garnish

4 slices brioche, ? inch thick and 2 inches square

2 teaspoons creme fraiche

4 teaspoons caviar of choice

Prepare an ice-water bath.

Fill a saucepan half full with water and bring to a boil over high heat.

Carefully lower the eggs into the saucepan, reduce the heat so that the water boils gently and cook for 8 minutes.

Transfer the eggs to an ice water bath and cool completely.

Peel the eggs, set them in a medium bowl and use a fork to roughly mash them. Add the celery, onion, olive oil and chives and stir to blend well.

Season with salt, pepper and ? teaspoon of vinegar. Stir, taste and correct for salt, pepper and acid, using the remaining vinegar if needed for balance.

Spread the egg slad over each slice of brioche and trim the edges to make each slice neat and clean. Cut each slice in half diagonally and set on a plate.

Top each triangle with a little cream fraiche and some of the caviar. Sprinkle with the reserved herbs and serve immediately.

Michele Anna Jordan can be contacted via e-mail at michele@micheleannajordan.com.