Berger: Chardonnays that leave the oak behind

Chablis is not for everyone, even though it is one of France’s most iconic white wines, an all-chardonnay dinner companion that fits perfectly with delicate foods.

The California version of chardonnay that has become so popular with many Americans is a lot richer, fuller-bodied and oakier, and it has a broader aftertaste, usually succulent and soft.

Those who prefer the very dry Chablis style of chardonnay love to talk about its minerality, high acidity and how well it goes with oysters on the half shell, pan fried steelhead and other more delicate foods.

Raj Iyer, a Sonoma County pharmaceuticals executive who was born in India, developed a taste for Chablis decades ago and always wondered why no one ever explored the Chablis style using local fruit.

There have been some noble efforts over the years. Some wine makers make chardonnay that is not aged in a barrel so the wine picks up no oak flavors. The results can be seen on shelves as “unoaked” or “unwooded.”

Among the best is from Iron Horse in western Russian River Valley. Its 2013 UnOaked Chardonnay ($27) is reminiscent of Chablis because of splendid acidity, and the flavors truly identify the varietal as well as its Green Valley origins.

Then there is the faux Chablis of WineSmith wines, a project of winemaker Clark Smith.

Since Chablis typically ages nicely, Smith’s most recent release of this delicate white wine is from the 2005 vintage ($40) and is made in the style of Chablis.

His website notes, “In homage to the true Chablis of Bourgogne, our Napa knockoff imitates its lemon blossom aromas, firm structure and mineral depth.”

The U.S. government has since banned use of “Chablis” as a protected French geographical place name, but that hasn’t dissuaded Iyer from making a Chablis-style wine from California chardonnay fruit. Using the Oceans Churning brand, he has just released two 2014 chardonnays from the Carneros grower Sangiacomo, using an old chardonnay clone, the Wente clone.

The result is an extraordinary effort to replicate what the Chablisienne have done for centuries: craft a chardonnay-based wine with all the delicacy of their district but with none of the oaky flavors that make for a richer wine.

Iyer’s two $50 a bottle chardonnays (Green Acres, 120 cases, and El Novillero, 150 cases) are clearly not for everyone, but they represent a new wave of wine making in which the grape is more respected and the barrel less so.

“Metaphorically, these wines are as close to Chablis as you can get,” said Iyer, but he noted that the prohibition against using Chablis on his label hamstrings his ability to identify its style.

Wine of the Week: 2012 Thurston Wolfe The Spaniard, Columbia Valley ($20): Wade Wolfe owns one of Washington’s most unheralded wineries, and this sensational red is well worth seeking out. Half of the grapes are cool climate grenache, a third are tempranillo, so the overall weight is medium. But the aroma and flavors are remarkable, with bright red cherries in the nose and an explosive mid-palate fruit with low tannin in the finish. A great value.

Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County and publishes “Vintage Experiences,” a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com.