Plenty to do near newly refurbished Emerald Bay campground

Looking for a last summer fling? If the lure of outdoor adventure, world class scenery and wild mountain air sounds appealing, consider heading up the hill to Lake Tahoe. The newly opened campground at Emerald Bay State Park offers a sparkling fresh, vista-rich spot to set up base.

On the eastern rim of California's flat central valley, the Sierra Nevada mountains slowly rise into the sky, about 2 millimeters every year. Two million years ago, in the heart of the range, a 22-mile-long, nearly 2,000-feet-deep basin formed when a massive block of this uplifting stone shifted, and water-filled Lake Tahoe was born.

Tahoe's alpine trails, pristine water and wilderness enthralled John Muir nearly a century and a half ago, and the same haunts are now easily accessible by car from the South Tahoe region.

For long sunny days and a smorgasbord of recreation choices in a natural setting, it's hard to beat an excursion to the lake near summer's end. The mountain gem is warm and welcoming, and the high altitude setting is nothing short of stunning.

A casual walk through the sweet scent of sun-warmed pines offers vistas of white granite peaks above deeply forested green slopes and sapphire blue water. Postcards and panoramas don't do it justice.

It's even possible to experience wildlife up close, like the 300-pound black bear spotted on the Rubicon Trail early one morning, high above the lake.

In the quiet forest, hiker and bear had the same reaction, which was to stop, size each other up and calculate how to get past without having to climb up or down the steep mountain slope.

It's best to follow the recommended advice. Give the bear space, make some noise, make yourself look big, don't run away. With a rippling shake of thick dark fur, she grudgingly surrendered the trail, loped uphill and resumed snuffling for her breakfast.

Emerald Bay State Park

The campground at Emerald Bay State Park just reopened in July after being closed for four years. It is one of the nicest at Tahoe and is still a fairly well kept secret. The newly refurbished grounds are high on the southern peninsula of glacier-gouged Emerald Bay, with two loops of campsites set among massive Jeffrey pines, some with lake views.

The upper and lower loops now have shiny new bathrooms with showers, as well as exterior sinks for washing up, which is helpful for avoiding food smells that attract bears into camp. Like Goldilocks in reverse, the local ursine residents will come calling if campers fail to put all food away in the metal bear-proof lockers provided at each site.

For swimming, kayaking and other water sports, a quarter-mile fire road leads down from the Emerald Bay campground to a private beach.

The campground also hosts the southern trailhead of the spectacular and deservedly popular Rubicon Trail.

The 4-mile-long Rubicon follows the entire perimeter of oval Emerald Bay and is an easy to moderate hike. Midway, the trail passes the picturesque Scandinavian Vikingsholm mansion and estate, and then rises into DL Bliss State Park to the north.

The elevated northern leg occasionally climbs granite stone steps, with steep overlooks and chain guardrails in spots, high above the clear water. The trail ends at the popular wide, sandy Calloway Cove beach. The Emerald Bay trailhead is often a better alternative to the crowded lots at DL Bliss and Eagle Falls, which require arriving early to find a parking space.

The bay is set in a basin of steep forested slopes and bare granite peaks, making for majestic vistas all along the trail. The elevation - you're more than a mile high at shoreline - and thinner air often create a deeply saturated blue sky that's mirrored in the deep lake waters.

Emerald Bay, being shallower, sports rich green depths and turquoise along its edge. From the apex at Eagle Falls, you can look down the entire length of Emerald Bay and out across the wide expanse of Lake Tahoe proper, to the distant ridgeline of mountains on the far Nevada shore, 10 miles away.

Nearby attractions

The South Lake region offers everything from true alpine wilderness to family friendly fun, with hiking, biking and plenty of water sports - beginner to adventurous - but never far from the nightlife and creature comforts in South Lake Tahoe. Many trails near Emerald Bay State Park lead inland to the 9,000-foot summit of Mount Tallac, passing a number of alpine lakes and waterfalls on the way to Desolation Wilderness. The latter requires signing in for a permit.

During the day, there's a fairly constant thrum and rumble from powerboats and jet skis on the lake. Along the shoreline and Bay, a flotilla of kayaks and stand-up paddleboards are available for rent. Emerald Bay is a designated underwater state park, with scuba diving.

T-shirts and shorts, kids and float toys are common with the mid-80s temperatures of summer days, making the 65- to 70-degree lake water more than inviting. But evenings cool down and can reach the upper 40s before dawn.

There's a small general store and a busy ice cream parlor at nearby historic Camp Richardson Retreat, a cheerful and busy family destination. Lodging there is an alternative to camping in the state parks at Emerald Bay, DL Bliss and Sugarpine farther north.

Not looking for a rustic experience? Head into South Lake Tahoe, just 6 miles away, where you'll find quality hotels as well as a wide range of shops, markets, galleries, casinos and restaurants.

Stephen Nett is a Bodega Bay-based certified California naturalist, writer and speaker. Contact him at snett@californiaparks.com.