In Season: Asian pears crispy yet juicy

Unlike the Bartlett pears that must be taken green from the tree to ripen properly, Asian pears ripen on the tree. And they store well while hanging ripe on the tree. So while their season starts in late summer, it goes right through September until Thanksgiving or even later.

But why wait? Tree-ripened Asian pears in their full glory are in the stores now - although many people are confounded by them.

Where you would expect them to be really sweet, they are only mildly sweet. Where you’d expect them to be sharply acidic, like a good apple, they are only mildly acidic. Where you might expect them to have melting flesh, like other ripe pears, they are crisp and even crunchy when ripe. And where you’d expect such crisp flesh to be sparingly juicy, they are very juicy.

So what do you do with them?

The perfect use for Asian pears is to core them, cut them into thin slices (you don’t need to peel them for this use), squirt them with fresh lime juice and add them to salads. Another good use is adding them to a fruit compote with more acidic fruits like kiwis, grapes and apples, and more highly flavored fruits like raspberries and blackberries. Their slight caramel flavor pairs beautifully with papaya, mango, chiles, ginger, cardamom, star anise, rice vinegar and honey.

From the list of their pairing partners and their name, you can guess that they are native to Japan, Korea and China. The common russet-tan Asian pears about the size of baseballs now in the stores are the Japanese and Korean sorts, while the Chinese species, although similar in taste, sweetness and texture, have more of the typical pear shape we associate with the Bartlett pear.

Because they are an odd fruit not heavily sold in commerce, they are often found in farmers markets where a grower sells off a few trees’ worth of fruits during autumn. Because their skins are delicate, look for Asian pears that are blemish-free.

You’ll want to try one to make sure they’re ripe, so if the farmer doesn’t have a sample for you, buy one pear. If it’s satisfactory, go back and buy more. They are good keepers and will store for up to three months in a paper bag in your refrigerator’s vegetable crisper.

You can also visit Gabriel Farm at 3175 Sullivan Road in Sebastopol, where for 17 years, Torrey Olson has grown 14 acres of fruit trees, including nine acres filled with 3,000 Asian pear trees. Now through the end of October, the public can visit the farmstand at the property, where Asian pears are for sale from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

During the week, you need an appointment to visit the farmstand. Call the farm at 707-829-0617 to make an appointment. You can also sign up as a member for pick-your-own rights, a form of Community Supported Agriculture.

In the late 1980s, the property was owned by a young couple, Jim and Judy Gabriel (hence the farm’s name). They put in eight acres of Asian pears, but after a few years, disaster struck. A storm of fire blight, a disease caused by a bacterium called Erwinia amylovora, did huge damage to the plantings. Deprived of their income, the Gabriels moved away.

Olson, the current owner, grows his fruit organically and for years used agricultural streptomycin to control fire blight on the replanted acreage. Ag-strep, as it’s called, is derived from naturally-occurring soil microbes and so was allowed, until recently, in organic culture. But for this year, the National Organic Program ruled it out, so Olson reports that in 2016 and the foreseeable future the pears will not be certified organic.

“But copper compounds are allowed,” he said, “even though copper is much worse for humans, wildlife and the environment than ag-strep.” Still, there it is.

Asian pears are delicious but not particularly nutritious, although they contain a modest amount of Vitamin C and a good store of dietary fiber. On the other hand, they may help you ward off a hangover. A study conducted last summer by Australia’s national science agency found that consuming Asian pears before a night of drinking - whole or in juice form - can lower blood alcohol levels and prevent hangovers. According to the study, you only need one cup of the fruit’s juice to stave off the hangover if you ingest it before imbibing in alcohol.

This refreshing palate cleanser is the antidote to rich and fatty foods. So serve a small dish between the roast goose and triple cream cheese at Thanksgiving.

Asian Pear Granita

Makes about 2 cups

1 pound (3 or 4) ripe Asian pears, peeled, cored, and rough chopped

1 cup superfine sugar

Combine the chopped pears and sugar in a blender and pulse to a medium-fine mixture. Don’t puree smooth.

Pour the mixture into a bowl or tray that will fit into your freezer.

Stir every 10 to 15 minutes until the mixture is frozen and grainy, but not solid. Serve immediately.

Jeff Cox is a Kenwood-based garden and food writer who can be reached at jeffcox@sonic.net.