Pairings: Sebastiani zin a perfect foil for fajitas

Our Wine of the Week, Sebastiani 2014 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($36), is a beauty, a regal example of what the varietal can do in this appellation.

As you lift the glass, you’ll notice aromas of cranberry, good black tea, and just a hint of white pepper, which may lead you to think of chai, however briefly. A melody of raspberry flavors carries the wine over the palate, with flavors of vanilla, golden toast and a forest’s top soil warmed by the sun.

It is a gorgeous wine, one that will both dazzle lovers of zinfandel and reveal why the varietal has so many passionate fans. At the table, it is as delicious with a grass-fed burger cooked rare as it is with a leg of lamb. Dishes with tomato sauce - from Cajun etouffé and spaghetti and meatballs to sausages braised with tomatoes and served over creamy polenta - make delightful companions.

Ribs are a natural match, as is American-style pizza, beef chili as long as it is not too hot, cioppino, and even macaroni and cheese made with good cheddar and plenty of cream.

For today’s recipe, inspiration comes from what may be the best possible match when it comes to meat. Skirt steak has the most concentrated flavors of any cut of beef and here, a slightly sweet liquid marinade engages with the fruit flavors in the wine in a beautiful way. Add a grilled onion and corn salsa that also has a fair amount of natural sweetness and you have an extraordinary marriage of flavors.

Beef Fajitas with ?Grilled Corn & Onion Salsa

Serves 4 to 6

2 pounds skirt steak

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

1 1/2 cups zinfandel, or other fruity red wine

1 cup apple juice

- Juice of 1 lemon

1/4 cup sugar

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

- Whole nutmeg

2 yellow onions, cut into 3/8-inch rounds

3 ears fresh corn, shucked

1 serrano, minced

- Juice of 1 lime, plus more to taste

1/4 extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh minced cilantro leaves

- Fresh corn tortillas, from 2 to 4 per person

Several hours before serving the fajitas, set the skirt steak on a work surface and cut it into 4-inch wide pieces, cutting with the grain, and season it on both sides with salt and pepper. Cover with a tea towel.

Pour the zinfandel, apple juice and lemon juice into a medium saucepan set over medium low heat. Add the sugar and stir until it is melted. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes and several gratings of nutmeg. Simmer gently until it is reduced by about half. Cool to room temperature.

Put the meat and onions into a gallon-sized plastic freezer bag, add the cooled liquid and seal the bag, pressing out air as you do. Massage the meat slightly and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

About an hour before serving, remove the meat and onions from the refrigerator. Prepare a charcoal fire in an outdoor grill.

Tip the meat and onions into a wide shallow bowl.

When the coals are ready, grill the onions, setting them on the outer edges of the grill rack, away from direct heat. Turn them now and then and cook until they are tender, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a bowl to cool.

Grill the corn, turning it quickly as it darkens, until it is just done, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the onions.

When the onions are cool enough to handle, cut them into small dice and transfer them to a clean bowl. Cut the kernels of corn from the cobs and add them to the bowl with the onions, along with the serrano, lime juice, olive oil, and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper, taste and correct the seasoning, adding more lime juice and salt for balance.

Heat the tortillas on a warm burner or dry pan set over medium-low heat until they are soft and tender; wrap them between the layers of a warmed tea towel or several warmed cloth napkins.

Working quickly, grill the skirt steak for 2 minutes, turn the pieces over, and grill for 2 minutes more or a bit longer if it is particularly thick.

Transfer to a clean work surface, cover with foil, and let rest 2 to 3 minutes. Cut into thin slices, again cutting with the grain, and pile onto a warmed platter, with the bowl of salsa in the center. Serve right away with the hot tortillas alongside.

Michele Anna Jordan hosts Mouthful, Smart Talk About Food, Wine and Farming on KRCB-FM every Sunday evening at 6 p.m. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com