Wine of the week: Markham, 2014 Napa Valley Merlot

Kimberlee Nicholls grew up in the Pacific Northwest where making concoctions in the kitchen was a favorite past time. Little did she know that all that cooking she did made her a winemaker-in-training.

Nicholls is the winemaker behind our wine-of-the-week winner - the Markham, 2014 Napa Valley Merlot at $25.

This is a pretty merlot, weighted to red fruit. It has bright, lively cherry notes, coupled with a kiss of vanilla and a hint of dark chocolate. The merlot has firm tannins and a nice length. It’s striking.

Nicholls said her kitchen duty during childhood paid off.

“Luckily, it was an education that has helped me as a winemaker and how I now approach blending,” she said.

Nicholls said it’s important the Markham merlot not be confused for cabernet so the winery looks for vineyards that provide ripe cherry and red fruit character that contribute those juicy and velvety characteristics.

Consistency is key, she added.

“Most of our growers have been selling us fruit for 15-plus years, which has helped us ensure consistency, an aspect that we strive for vintage to vintage.”

When it comes to making merlot, Nicholls said the most challenging part continues to be calling the pick.

“It does take time to trust your palate,” she said. “I feel like merlot more than any other varietal that we make, has a switch. It tastes OK when you are sampling but when the switch happens, it finally goes from good to great. I call it submission!”

Nicholls, 51, has a bachelor’s degree in biology from Willamette University. This is her 25th year at Markham, and she worked her way up from enologist to associate winemaker to winemaker in 2001.

Nicholls said Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in Napa Valley hired her in 1989, the first winery to interview her, even though her knowledge of wine was quite limited. It taught her that food and wine were inseparable.

“My husband (boyfriend at the time) suggested if I wasn’t going to continue on to medical school as planned that perhaps I should apply to a winery because it sounded like a promising career,” she said.

Nicholls doesn’t have any regrets in tending grapes as opposed to patients.

Merlot is Markham’s flagship wine and the 2014 vintage is the winery’s 35th. Nicholls said she prides herself in making supple merlots that speak their mind.

“I like to say they’re feminine to cabernet’s masculinity, but that doesn’t mean they’re lacking any sass.”