Wine of the week: 2017 Unoaked Bucher Vineyard, Russian River Valley Chardonnay

Like a homing pigeon, John Bucher circled back to his farm on Westside Road in Healdsburg after college.

John grew up on the farm, hiking near the creek and rescuing birds on occasion. He has deep roots there, with the Bucher family tending this piece of property for 60 years.

“I literally have only had three permanent addresses in my whole life, all a quarter of a mile from each other,” John said, with a laugh. “The only time I spent away from Healdsburg was four years at UC Davis. I’m pretty homegrown.”

John, 56, considers himself a farmer who makes wine and this farmer is behind our wine-of-the-week winner –– the J. Bucher, 2017 Unoaked Bucher Vineyard, Russian River Valley Chardonnay at $30.

This is a tasty chardonnay where tropical meets citrus, a lovely yin yang. It has a round texture, great balance and notes of pineapple, apple and guava. The Bucher chardonnay is spot on.

“We love this unoaked chardonnay,” said co-vintner Diane Bucher. “We want all of our wines to be food-friendly with great acid.”

Diane and John didn’t drink too much chardonnay for years because they found most to have too much oak. At the time they preferred sauvignon blanc, but they were determined to craft a crisp and balanced chardonnay they would enjoy drinking.

“We farm in the Russian River Valley, which is a great area to grow Burgundian varietals,” Diane said. “Pinot noir and chardonnay do really well here.”

The Buchers, dairy farmers with 700 cows on their farm, began diversifying in 1997 by planting five acres of wine grapes. Today there’s a total of 55 acres in the vineyard, and most of the fruit is sold to 15 different wineries, including Williams Selyem, Merry Edwards, Dutcher Crossing and Ramey Wine Cellars.

“I remember tasting my first pinot noir from Anderson Valley when I was in college,” said John, who graduated in 1984. “The bright fruit aromatics and silky texture of the wine was something so different than other wines I had tasted. I knew then if I ever had a chance to grow grapes or make wine, it would be pinot noir. Growing and making chardonnay followed soon after planting our first pinot noir grapes.”

Diane said their winemaking prowess begins in the vineyard.

“John is in the vineyard every day during the growing season, and we really strive to produce exceptional fruit.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.