Pairing: Cab franc soars with simple pasta

Our Wine of the Week, Paul Mathew Vineyards 2016 Russian River Valley Alegria Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($29), is as delightful and delicate a cab franc as I have ever tasted. Without the influence of oak - the wine was fermented in stainless steel - there is a purity to the fruit flavors that is quite exhilarating.

You’ll notice some similarities to pinot noir, which is not surprising, given that winemaker Mat Gustafsen specializes in the varietal, but it is not a copycat. There are deep, earthy flavors, suggestive of damp top soil, the floor of a redwood forest after a spring rain and a hint of new leather, reminiscent of the first ride you take in a new car.

These flavors form a foundation, above which bright fruit - especially Bing cherry and red raspberry – rises. The texture is appealingly silken, which opens up possibilities at the table beautifully.

The wine will work deliciously with almost any food that welcomes a pinot noir, from wild mushrooms and winter squash to wild salmon, rare lamb and rare duck. When cherries come into season in a couple of months, you’ll want to have this bottle around to enjoy with grilled salmon topped with a simple fresh cherry relish. The match will be truly extraordinary.

The wine can also be served with a wide range of comfort foods - a simple winter bread soup, enchiladas (provided they are not too spicy), polenta with a simple tomato-cream sauce and that all-time favorite staple, spaghetti marinara, which is what inspires today’s recipe.

Please note that you should not reduce the amount of olive oil in this recipe. It has more than we typically use these days, but if you add less than is called for you will have an ordinary sauce. Use the full amount and you might find yourself licking the plate.

Spaghetti Marinara

Makes 4 to 6 servings

- Kosher salt

1 pound spaghettini or similar strand pasta

½ cup olive oil

½ small yellow onion, minced

1 small shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

- Black pepper in a mill

1 cup dry red wine

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen brand

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

- Chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano or similar cheese

- Crushed red pepper

Fill a large pot two-thirds full with water, add a generous 2 tablespoons of salt and bring to boil over high heat. When the water reaches a rolling boil, add the pasta and stir until the water returns to a boil. Cook according to package directions until the pasta is just tender. Drain but do not rinse the pasta; leave some of the cooking water clinging to the strands. Tip the pasta into a warmed serving bowl.

Meanwhile, set a heavy sauté pan over medium heat, add the olive oil, the onions and the shallots and cook until the onion is soft and fragrant, about 11 or 12 minutes; do not let them brown or burn. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the red wine and the oregano and simmer until the wine reduced by about two-thirds. Stir in the tomatoes, reduce the heat to low, stir and cook for 10 minutes. Taste and correct for salt and pepper. Stir in the Italian parsley.

Pour the sauce over the pasta and use two forks or a pasta fork to lift the pasta over and over until it is fully coated with sauce.

Enjoy right away, with the cheese, a grater and the crushed red pepper alongside.

Variation: To make this dish really soar, make duck meatballs to serve with it. You’ll find my recipe for duck meatballs at “Eat This Now” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com. Make the meatballs and set them aside. Add them to the sauce about 5 minutes before you are ready to serve the dish.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.