Pairings: Zin shines with a classic lamb dish

Our Wine of the Week, Armida 2016 Zinfandel Sonoma Coast, Parmelee-Hill Vineyard ($48) has a suave delicacy bestowed by the cool climate in which the grapes were grown. Red fruit - Bing cherry, red raspberry, pomegranate and cranberry - form the core flavors, with subtle threads of spice and a luminous acidity rounding things out. It is sassy rather than bold

This zinfandel is a pleasure to pair, as it has myriad potential partners. Foods with an earthy component - eggplant, mushrooms, and hummus - flatter the wine beautifully. It is also excellent with many of the usual suspects, from thin-crusted pizza and spaghetti with meatballs to grilled tri-tip and creamy polenta with braised sausages. One of my favorite ways to enjoy this wine is with a sandwich made on Revolution Bakery’s whole wheat bread, with a thick layer of hummus, a few mint leaves, thinly sliced rare leg of lamb, a dollop of whole-milk yogurt and a sprinkling of crunchy salt flakes. The sandwich is inspired by lamb schawarma, which is today’s recipe. It takes a bit longer to make than the sandwich, but the hands-on work is easy, and the results are delicious.

Lamb Schawarma with Tahini, Chick Peas & Mint

Serves 4

- Tahini Sauce (recipe follows)

1 ½ to 2 pounds lamb (from butterflied leg or boneless shoulder)

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

2 cups plain whole milk yogurt

2 tablespoons olive oil

- Juice of ½ lemon

3/4 teaspoon dried oregano

1 bay leaf

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

- Pinch of ground clove

1 cup cooked chickpeas

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 small red onion, very thinly sliced

2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley

2 tablespoons minced cilantro

2 tablespoons minced mint leaves

4 whole pitas

- Mint sprigs

First, make the sauce. Then set the lamb on a clean work surface and cut it into thin slices, and cut slices into ½-inch wide strips. Put the sliced lamb into a bowl, season with salt and pepper and toss.

In a small bowl, combine 1 cup of the yogurt with the olive oil, the lemon juice and the oregano, bay leaf, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning; the flavors should be bright and bold.

Pour the yogurt sauce over the lamb and toss gently to coat the lamb thoroughly with the marinade. Refrigerate overnight or for at least 8 hours.

To finish, preheat the oven to ?300 degrees and transfer the lamb and marinade to a medium sauté pan set over medium heat and cook for about 7 or 8 minutes for medium rare. Use tongs to remove and discard the bay leaf. Remove from the heat, cover and keep hot.

Heat the pita in the oven, until they are hot but tender, not toasted.

Working quickly, put the chickpeas into a small bowl, season with salt and pepper, add the extra virgin olive oil and toss. Set aside briefly.

Set the bread on four plates and top with meat. Season with salt and pepper, top with red onion and drizzle with tahini sauce. Scatter chickpeas on top. Sprinkle parsley, cilantro and mint on top and add a dollop of the remaining yogurt. Garnish with mint sprigs, with remaining yogurt alongside.

Tahini Sauce

Makes about 1 cup

2 garlic cloves, crushed

- Kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and crushed

- Black pepper in a mill

- Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus more as needed

1/2 cup raw tahini, stirred

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Put the garlic into a mortar or suribachi, sprinkle with salt and grind with a wooden pestle until it has been reduced to a smooth paste. Add the cumin, several turns of black pepper and the lemon juice; mix well. Stir in the tahini and olive oil.

Thin the sauce with water, about 1 tablespoon at a time, until it reaches a pourable consistency, not too thin and not too thick.

Transfer the sauce to a small bowl, cover and refrigerate.