Pairing: Sparkler with polenta pizza

Our Wine of the Week, Roederer Estate Non-Vintage Anderson Valley Brut ($24), is a smile in a bottle, a wine that while it is on your lips simply makes you happy. You can, if you choose, pay attention to its complexity, to flavors of Barlett pear, Asian pear, toasted hazelnuts and subtle sweet spices that weave through its elegant bubbles. Or you can simply enjoy it, with almost anything alongside.

Champagne and other sparkling wines are among the most food-friendly beverages in the world. We typically think of sparklers as special-occasion wines but they can function as peacemaker at the table, as delicious with, say, Petrale sole Meuniere and lemon risotto as with a rare steak. There is no course, no meal, no occasion, for which they are not suited.

I love this sparkler with French fries dipped in aioli, with simple bruschetta, with fried Padrons and Shishitos. It is, of course, a great match with raw oysters but equally good with other shellfish. It is even lovely with humble macaroni and cheese.

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Today’s recipe mirrors several of the wine’s flavors in a slightly whimsical pizza, perfect as an appetizer and as a main course, with a simple green salad alongside.

Pear, Prosciutto & Polenta Pizza with Hazelnuts

Serves 4

1 teaspoon dry yeast

1 cup warm water

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

- Kosher salt

1½ cups all-purpose flour

¾ cup fine-ground polenta, plus more as needed

1 firm-ripe pear

1 or 2 lemons wedges, to prevent browning

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

5 very thin slices of prosciutto

5 ounces Camembert-style cheese, such as Redwood Hill Camellia or Cameo, chilled and very thinly sliced

¼ cup shelled hazelnuts, lightly toasted and peeled (see Note below)

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the yeast with 1/4 cup warm water and let sit for 10 minutes.

Coat the inside of a large metal or glass bowl with olive oil.

Stir the remaining water, the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt into the yeast, mix in the flour and polenta, turn out onto a floured work surface and knead for 7 minutes.

Transfer the dough to the oiled bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and let rise in a warm place until double, about 1½ hours. Turn out the risen dough onto a lightly floured work surface, let rest 5 minutes and pat or roll into a 10-inch circle. Sprinkle a pizza paddle lightly with polenta and transfer the stretched dough to the paddle. Cover and let rise for 1 hour.

Preheat an oven to 450 degrees; if you have a pizza stone or baking tile, be sure it is in the oven.

Peel and core the pear, cut it into 1/8-inch wide lengthwise slices and squeeze a little lemon juice over it.

Brush the melted butter over the dough and top with the prosciutto and cheese. Arrange the pears on top and scatter the hazelnuts over everything.

Just before baking the pizza, sprinkle the stone, tile, or a baking sheet lightly with polenta.

Bake the pizza for 12 to 15 minutes, until the edges of the crust just begin to take on some color.

Transfer from the oven to a clean work surface or pizza paddle, cool for 5 minutes, cut into 8 slices and serve immediately.

Note: If you toast hazelnuts in a hot dry pan, the skins should loosen. Transfer the toasted nuts to a tea towel, fold the towel over them and then rub the nuts with the heel of your hand, pressing down and moving in a back and forth motion. This will loosen the skins; you may need to do it several times.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 17 books to date, including “Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings.” Email Jordan at michele@saladdresser.com. You’ll find her blog, “Eat This Now,” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.