Santa Rosa’s Mac’s Deli still a downtown gem

Attending college at New York University wasn’t kind to my waistline. I walked a lot to get around Manhattan, yet the exercise often led me past the city’s many, many aptly named New York delis. Geez, a mile-high, juicy hot pastrami layered with coleslaw on an onion roll … who could resist?

Living now in Sebastopol is much healthier, what with eating organic sticks and foraged berries, and few Reubens to be found amid our area’s tempeh and tofu bowls. Except dang, if there isn’t Mac’s Deli in downtown Santa Rosa, boasting a New York-style menu including that dastardly griddled sandwich of succulent corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing ($8.95).

I’ve been pretty good about eating clean for a long time now, but this year marks Mac’s 66th anniversary, so as a tribute to Sonoma County’s oldest breakfast and sandwich café, I felt a visit was in order. Which quickly turned into two, then three.

Thud. I’ve fallen off the plant-based food wagon. And I couldn’t be happier. Because while I can’t pretend that Mac’s is as dangerously delightful as authentic Big Apple delis, it’s still so satisfying. When I’m craving that unusual but addictive combo of pastrami and egg salad on a French roll ($8.50), this is where I go.

Mac’s honors its original owner, Mac Nesmon, who debuted his dream in 1952. In 1955, Nesmon sold to Al and Lorraine Croup, who in 1970, sold to Iraj Soltani and his wife, Lynn Soltani. Iraj and Lynn have since passed on, but the business remains in the family, under the couple’s son, Toraj Soltani, and his wife, Lisa.

The place feels like family, with servers dressed in street clothes, their moods relaxed and cheerful even as they rush between the kitchen pass-through and booths or tables. Plates arrive within ten minutes, and guests check out each others’ food, likely planning their next order even as they eat. Sit at the counter overlooking the kitchen, and you’ll probably end up chatting with the guests next to you.

A lox Benedict breakfast pretty much guarantees you’ll have a good day. It’s rich, with a generous layer of thin-sliced salmon, perfectly poached eggs, and an ocean of hollandaise over the English muffins ($11.95). But the flavors are so fresh the meal feels light, especially when I ask for a finishing sprinkle of capers, and opt for strawberries and melon instead of the sliced, sautéed home fries alongside.

I can’t claim the same virtue with a hefty Ortega chile, cheddar and Italian sausage omelet ($11.50), however. The moist, gooey bundle is slightly spicy, and I add salsa for extra kick.

It’s gotta be hash browns with this baby, the buttery grilled shredded potatoes nicely crisp on the edges.

Breakfast is served all day, plus lunch until four. So afternoons find tables laden with Kosher salami and Swiss sandwiches ($8.95), or hot frankfurter plates rounded out with coleslaw, macaroni salad, tomatoes, bread and house-made thousand island dressing ($9.75).

I particularly like the humble patty melt ($8.70). A third-pound burger is grilled medium rare as ordered, topped in grilled onions, Jack cheese and thousand island on grilled rye.

For an even truer Big City bite, however, it’s hard to beat the #14 combo ($9.95) Sit at the counter, and see if you don’t feel you’re back East, as you scarf a hot corned beef on crispy crust pumpernickel, paired with your choice of a side salad, and a glass of tap beer such as Santa Rosa’s own 3rd Street Ale Works suds.

And though this may not reflect authentic New York as much, Mac’s club sandwich ($10.25) is another standout.

Thickly sliced baked ham snuggles with roast turkey, bacon, crisp tomato, romaine, mayo and honey mustard on triple-decker sourdough toast ($10.25).

I add avocado slices ($1.25), and it’s terrific, it’s crunchy, creamy, meaty joy.

In a perfect world, Mac’s would stack its sammies like a traditional Manhattan deli, where the monsters are so indulgent with thin carved meat that they often tower five inches high.

I appreciate the pickle spear included with the sandwiches, but don’t love paying extra for fries (50 cents), when the medium cut spuds are limp.

Wine service would be nice, too, since we’re in Wine Country.

Finishing with a big slice of homemade strawberry cream pie, meanwhile, has always been the ultimate in happiness.

Yet unfortunately, Mac’s has stopped baking pies, though its menu still proudly lists them. Now, we get cheesecake ($5.25), from J.M. Rosen of Petaluma.

But as I spoon up soup of the day ($4.75 bowl), those thoughts seem nit-picky.

It’s matzo ball, lavish with a half-dozen herbed dumplings, sliced carrots, and shredded chicken in a savory, dill-flecked broth.

A bit of New York thrives in Sonoma County, and I say, diet? Fuggedaboudit.

Carey Sweet is a Sebastopol-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.