In Season: Cauliflower at its peak now

“Cauliflower is cabbage with a college education,” wrote Mark Twain, and he was right.

Cauliflower is in the cabbage family, a group of vegetables that likes cool weather. That's why the heads of cauliflower showing up in the stores now come from seedlings that were planted late last summer, grew slowly over the winter, and are just now making delicate, creamy and nutty heads.

To take full advantage of these choice early spring heads, find one harvested within the last day or two. Such a prize is most likely to be found at farmers' markets, but you can find them in Oliver's, Nugget, and Whole Foods, too. The types that are heading up now are the Walcherin strains that were bred in Holland and produce heads in February through May. Coastal regions of Northern California through the Pacific Northwest are ideal for these strains.

Most supermarket cauliflower is trimmed of all its leaves and covered in perforated cellophane wrappers. You may see small browned areas on the creamy-white surface of such heads. Avoid them. Look for heads that still have their wrapper leaves intact. These are long green and white leaves that have either been tied up over the heads or naturally grow to cover the heads. These leaves keep direct sunlight from the curds, which can discolor them. When these outer leaves have a fresh, bright look and a turgid snap to their midribs, it's sure the head is fresh. Check the cut stem for drying or discoloration.

The curd should not be ricey, a condition where curds develop a velvety appearance and resemble a pot of boiled rice. This means small white flower buds have begun to form and are preparing to pop open, which in turn means the head is too old.

When young and at its freshest, the curd is composed of tightly packed tips of offshoots from the thick stems. Only later, when the head is nearing maturity, do these tips differentiate into unopened flower buds, and eventually into flowers.

Look also for small green leaves appearing in the curd. This is due to the plant reverting to vegetative growth, rather than curd formation, because of warm temperatures. Curds that are excessively yellow rather than creamy white have been exposed to sunlight and will have a more pronounced cabbage flavor and possibly more bitterness.

If you find some pink color in the interior of the head, that's due to excessively cool temperatures at harvest and doesn't mean disease is at work. In many of the most popular types of white cauliflower, over-maturity or exposure to sunlight may cause a purple color to haze the surface of the curd. But be aware that there are also green, purple, and even orange varieties of cauliflower, and these are naturally those colors.

Romanesco is a lime-green variety with a beautiful mathematical pattern to its formation that's intermediate between broccoli and cauliflower. It's a choice variety, nuttier and earthier than either broccoli or cauliflower, but also sweeter. Orange Bouquet and Marmalade are the chief orange varieties of cauliflower, whose heads are rich in beta carotene.

The stems, incidentally, are rich in vitamins and minerals stored for use during flowering. I try to emulate the Chinese in peeling and slicing them thinly, then stir-frying them with other vegetables.

A half cup of cauliflower curds contain 40 percent of the Recommended Daily Allowance of vitamin C, about 9 and 8 percent of vitamin B6 and folic acid respectively, a gram and a half of dietary fiber, but only 12 calories.

Cauliflower is versatile. It's an excellent addition to a tray of crudités, but it also can be baked, boiled, steamed, roasted, stir-fried or sautéed, and cooked then puréeed to make a creamy sauce for grilled fish. Personally, I avoid boiling it, for that turns it to mush too quickly and brings out the cabbage flavor. A friend said to boil it in milk to keep the flavor mild, but I haven't tried it. I have simmered curds gently in almond milk and it turns them into the creamiest vegetable imaginable.

Before cooking a head of organic cauliflower, I always soak it in a bowl of water dosed with salt and cider vinegar for an hour, just in case one of those little green cabbage worms has set up shop in the interior.

Be aware that cooking the purple types such as ‘Violet Queen' will turn its color to green. The pale green types will stay green, and the orange varieties will also hold their color.

Because of its delicate flavor, cauliflower pairs well with more sharply flavored ingredients like cheeses, pepper, cumin, garlic, lemon, mustard, nutmeg, anchovies, and ham or bacon. Butter, cream, bread crumbs, or wheat germ are old-fashioned standard toppings.

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Greek food is renowned for its simplicity and wonderful flavor. This way of handling cauliflower shows us why.

Greek Battered Cauliflower

Serves 4

1 head cauliflower

2 egg whites

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

- Pinch of sea salt

- Olive oil

Separate the head into florets, then steam them until just tender.

Beat the egg whites until stiff.

Fold in the flour, white wine, and salt and whip to make a smooth, clingy batter.

Add a half cup or so of olive oil to a skillet and turn heat to medium low. Avoid letting oil smoke.

Coat each floret with batter and fry in the oil on all sides until they are golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.

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The Dutch and many other northern European nations like a little cheese on their cauliflower. This recipe makes an outstanding main dish. You'll need a double boiler (or rig one up) for this.

Cheesy Dutch Cauliflower Casserole

Serves 4 to 5 as main

2 large egg yolks

1 tablespoon butter at room temperature

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 head cauliflower, broken into four or five parts then steamed

5 ounces Gouda cheese, grated

Pre-heat the oven to 350 F.

Place two or three inches of water in the bottom of the double boiler and heat to a medium boil.

Whisk the egg yolks with the butter and flour in the top of the double boiler and set it over the boiling bottom pot. Cook slowly, stirring almost constantly, until the mixture thickens, but not hot enough to curdle and cook the yolks.

When the mixture is hot, add five ounces of Gouda cheese and stir until it melts and makes a smooth, creamy sauce. Remove from the heat or turn the heat to low.

Steam the cauliflower pieces until just tender.

Place the cauliflower pieces in a casserole dish, pour the cheese sauce over them, and bake in a 350 degree pre-heated oven for 10 minutes, or until the cheese starts to brown. It should serve four or five people as a main dish, or more as a side.

Jeff Cox is a Kenwood-based food and garden write. E-mail him at jeffcox@sonic.net.