Now is the perfect time for okra. Here’s how to cook it

For a couple of seasons in the mid 2000s, Sonoma County had the most beautiful okra.

Most commercial okra the world around is green. But Jill Adams, operating Crescent Moon Farm at the time, found seeds for red okra, which is a deep pink, almost maroon. They were so pretty that from a distance they looked like they were made of porcelain.

I have not seen them again, but I see plenty of green ones and this is a perfect time to enjoy them. They pair beautifully with other foods of the season, especially corn, chiles, tomatoes and winter squash.

I’ve known many people who dislike okra. The problem comes from how okra is cooked. When it is first on the heat, it releases a liquid that’s a bit slimy, similar to what nopales (cactus paddles) release. But left on the heat for a few minutes, the liquid evaporates, as it should if the okra will be eaten as a simple side dish. Served neat, with just a bit of salt, they taste like green beans.

When the liquid isn’t evaporated, it serves as a thickener and is an essential ingredient in classic gumbo of Louisiana. Gumbo is popular throughout the American South, where okra thrives in the humid heat.

If you have never purchased okra, look for pods that are plump and free of blemishes. If you find any red ones, let me know!

Nigerian Okra Soup

Makes 4 - 6 servings

At this time of year, ripe tomatoes practically turn themselves into sauce, making late summer and early fall an ideal time to make this soup inspired by a traditional soup from Nigeria.

3 tablespoons peanut oil or coconut oil

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, crushed and minced

Kosher salt

1 pound (about 3 dozen) okra, stemmed and thinly sliced

2 serranos, minced

1 cup tomato concasse, see Note

4 cups chicken stock, hot

1 ½ cups cooked white rice

Black pepper in a mill

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Bottled hot sauce

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan set over medium-low heat, add the onions and fry until soft and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook two minutes more. Stir in the okra and cook for four minutes, stirring frequently. Season with salt.

Stir in the serranos and tomatoes, increase the heat to medium, add the rice and hot stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for about 12 minutes, until the okra is just tender.

Correct for salt and add several generous turns of black pepper. If the soup is thicker than you like, thin it with water or chicken stock, ¼ cup at a time. Taste and correct the seasoning after the last addition.

Garnish with cilantro and enjoy right away, with bottled hot sauce alongside.

Note: Tomato concasse is simply fresh tomatoes that have been peeled, seeded, minced and drained of some of their liquid. You’ll need four to six large tomatoes to yield a cup.

Fall Rice Salad with Grilled Okra, Corn and Poblanos

Makes about 8 servings

This salad is delicious as it is and can be a main course or a side dish. There are no animal products in this version, but it’s easy to add a pound of your favorite sausage, grilled and cut into ¼-inch rounds. Please note that you’ll need a handful of bamboo skewers; be sure to soak them in water for at least 30 minutes before using them.

3 cups cooked rice of choice, warm

⅓ cup freshly squeezed lime juice

½ teaspoon chipotle powder

½ teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon paprika, preferably smoked Spanish

Kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

½ pound (12 - 14) okra

2 red onions, peeled

Olive oil

3 poblano peppers

3 ears of corn, shucked

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro or Italian parsley

Build a charcoal fire in an outdoor grill.

Put the rice into a wide shallow bowl and drizzle about 2 tablespoons of lime juice over it. Add the chipotle powder, cumin and paprika. Season with salt and pepper, toss gently and set aside.

Thread okra onto two parallel wooden skewers, spearing the okra on each end and leaving at least an inch between each one. Set aside briefly.

Cut the onions into thick crosswise slices if they are round, or in half lengthwise if they are torpedo-shaped. Brush them with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and set aside.

When the fire is ready, set the onions on a grill rack and add the peppers alongside. Cook the onions until they are tender and evenly browned but not burned, about 15 to 20 minutes, turning them at least once. Transfer to a plate.

Sear the chiles until their skin is blistered. Transfer to a bowl and cover with a tea towel.

Grill the corn, turning frequently, until it is evenly browned, about three to four minutes. Transfer to a work surface.

Grill the okra skewers, turning once, until lightly and evenly marked, about five to six minutes.

Cut the onion into small dice and add it to the bowl with the rice.

Cut the corn from the cobs and add it to the bowl. Peel the peppers, remove the stems and seed cores, cut into medium julienne and add to the bowl. Cut the stem ends from the okra, slice each pod into ¼-inch rounds and add to the bowl. Toss the vegetables together.

Add the remaining lime juice, olive oil and several turns of black pepper. Toss thoroughly. Taste the salad, correct for salt and pepper, cover and set aside for 30 minutes before serving.

Caribbean Okra Salad

Makes 4 servings

Here is a very simple, delightful way to enjoy okra. It is excellent as a side dish with fish or almost any grilled meat or poultry.

1 pound okra, preferably small, rinsed and dried

3 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt

Black pepper in a mill

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

2 garlic cloves, crushed and minced

2 pinches ground allspice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 ripe tomato, diced

Bottled hot sauce, preferably Caribbean-style

Trim the tips of the okra. Pour a tablespoon of the oil into a medium saute pan set over medium heat. Add the okra and saute two minutes, stirring and tossing continuously.

Season with salt and pepper, add ½ cup water, cover and cook over low heat for about seven minutes or until the okra are just tender. Shake the pan now and then and add a bit of water as needed; do not let the okra burn.

Transfer the okra to a serving plate.

Combine the remaining oil, lime juice, garlic, allspice and two generous splashes of hot pepper sauce in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the dressing over the okra and scatter the cilantro and tomato on top. Serve at room temperature or chilled, with the bottled hot sauce alongside.

Pickled Okra

Makes 2 pints, easily doubled

This style of pickle is very easy and pretty much foolproof. You should adapt it to your own preferences, i.e., leave out the chiles or add just two serranos if you prefer milder heat and add less sugar if you prefer your pickles really tart.

1 pound young okra pods

6 Thai chiles

4 whole garlic cloves, peeled

2 teaspoons coriander seed

2 teaspoons mustard seed

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

½ teaspoon cumin seed

2 cups apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons kosher salt

4 tablespoons granulated sugar

Trim the stems of the okra pods to just ¼ inch. Wash them thoroughly; wash the chilies and trim their stems. Set aside.

Set two sterilized pint glass jars on your work surface. Put two garlic cloves into each jar and divide the coriander seed, mustard seed, peppercorns and cumin between them.

Pack the okra into the jars, add the chilies and set aside.

Pour the apple cider vinegar into a small saucepan, add 1 cup of water and stir in the salt and sugar. Set over low heat and stir until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Carefully taste the mixture and add more sugar if you prefer sweeter pickles.

Pour the liquid into the jars, leaving about a half inch at the top.

Add the lids and rings, set on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator and leave for two weeks before eating.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “The New Cook’s Tour of Sonoma.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.