Santa Rosa chef shares secrets to making delicious curries at home

When people hear the word “curry,” they often think of the Indian subcontinent, where the warm, aromatic spice blend found its way into classic dishes such as chicken tikki masala and lamb vindaloo.

The origin of those dishes reaches back further than was previously imagined. In 2013, archaeologists discovered human teeth and pottery shards with 4,000-year-old ginger, garlic and turmeric in starch grains during an excavation in an ancient town west of Delhi.

“Curry is not only among the world’s most popular dishes, it also may be the oldest continuously prepared cuisine on the planet,” Andrew Lawler wrote in the online magazine Slate.

Although curry first took root in India thousands of years ago, it has since spread all over the world, creating new variations in neighboring cultures, where the curries continue to evolve while providing a tasty slice of history.

“Curry powder” is actually a British term used to describe India’s aromatic garam masala spice blend - roasted, crushed spices such as coriander and cumin seeds, black peppercorn, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, star anise and cinnamon.

“After the British ruled Indian, they fell in love with their dishes,” said chef/instructor Mei Ibach of Santa Rosa, who grew up in Malaysia. “The East India Co. was created to export garam masala.

Garam masala means “heated up spices.” Meanwhile, the origins of the word “curry” can be traced to the Tamil word kari, meaning “spiced sauce” or “gravy.” So wherever you tuck into a fragrant curry dish - from Thailand and Malaysia to Japan and the UK - you’re always going to slurp up a savory sauce carrying its own, distinctive whiff of spices.

“Curry is like mole in Mexico,” Ibach said. “It’s always a family recipe and the backbone of home cooking.”

When the Indians started to travel in the 1900s, she said, they took their native spices with them to Asia, Europe and Africa, where they were incorporated into the native cuisines.

“The world of spices spread,” Ibach said. “That’s how those countries came to use those spices. The Moroccans use the cumin, coriander, nutmeg, cardamom and turmeric as well.”

Over time, the Portuguese explorers also brought chiles from Mexico and South America back to Asia through the spice trade. After that, peppers from the Capsicum family started heating up the curry sauces in India and beyond.

While the Indians stick to blending dry spices for their curries, the Thai prefer to combine fresh herbs such as lemongrass and galangal (Thai ginger) with dried chiles. Their spice blends are referred to as a paste rather than a powder because of their fresh quality.

The green curry paste uses fresh, green chiles, and the red chile paste uses dried red chiles. Other Thai curries include Massaman, a rich but relatively mild curry; and Panang, which is thick, salty and sweet.

“The Massaman curry of Thailand resonates with the Indian curry because they added dried turmeric,” Ibach said. “The Panang curry has shrimp paste because of the influence of the Malaysian spices to the south.”

Like the Southern Indians, both the Thai and Malaysians use coconut milk as the liquid base for the curry sauce, while most of India relies on yogurt or milk. The milks help tame the spice in the chiles.

In Malaysia - a blend of native Malay, Chinese, Indian, Baba-Nyonya (Chinese men and Malay spouses) and Portuguese settlers - the hybrid culture developed their own exotic curry paste. The blend incorporates some of the dry spices of Indian curries with locally grown herbs, spices and nuts to create the aromatic rempah, which means “spice paste.”

In the old days, Ibach said, the women would blend the paste by hand in a mortar and pestle using Malaysia’s indigenous candlenuts, galangal, dried red chile, shallots, fermented shrimp paste, peppercorns and lemongrass.

“In the days of my mom’s generation, you would have to display your skill of making rempah to your in-laws, using a mortar and pestle, before you got married,” she said. “It was all done by hand so you could control the consistency and add the spices at a different time.”

Nowadays, modern cooks still roast the whole spices in a cast-iron pan to bring out the flavor and aromas, then throw it all into a food processor to create the complex spice paste.

To save time, Ibach said, make your basic spice pastes ahead of time and keep them in the freezer, then pull them out when you’re ready to cook. Also, try to make your curries a day or two in advance, so the flavors can deepen and blend together in the fridge.

Most curries go well with some kind or rice on the side to soak up the complex, delicious sauce.

“The Indians eat curry with basmati rice and their naan flatbread,” she said. “And they like it at room temperature.”

When she makes basmati rice, Ibach will often add aromatics and spices, including turmeric and saffron, which flavor the rice and turn it a golden hue.

Although it may sound counterintuitive, it’s actually a good idea to eat curry during the summer, when the temperatures soar.

“When you eat spicy food, you sweat, and it cools your body down, Ibach said. “The spices are also healing and help boost your metabolism.”

Ibach suggests always buying whole spices and roasting them yourself. If you like your curries less spicy, you can remove the seeds and membranes of the peppers, where the heat is concentrated.

For Indian spices, she suggests sourcing from the Valero Gas Station market in Larkfield (4856 Old Redwood Highway, Santa Rosa), where you can find all kinds of Indian ingredients.

For Thai curries, stop by the Aroon Thai Market (2770 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa) on Fridays, when the fresh herbs and spices are delivered.

For the shrimp paste and candlenuts for Malaysian curry, head to Asia Mart (2481 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa), which has a large variety of Asian ingredients.

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The following recipes are from Mei Ibach of Santa Rosa. The word “garam” translates to “heating up the body” and “masala” refers to “spice.”

Mei’s Garam Masala

Makes 1/2 cup

2 tablespoon coriander seeds

2 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon black peppercorn

1 tablespoon cloves

1 teaspoon cardamom (no shells)

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

2 teaspoon nutmeg

2-3 star anise

3 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces

3 bay leaves

Place all spices except the bay leaves in a dry frying pan, preferably a cast-iron pan, over low heat. Stir constantly for about one minute or until they start to smell fragrant and the aroma is released.

Remove the spices and place into a bowl to cool. Transfer the roasted spices into a food processor or a coffee grinder (one that is designated for spice grinding) or a mortar and pestle.

Grind the spices to a fine powder. Add the bay leaves and let the spices cool before storing in an air-tight container up to 2-3 weeks in the pantry.

Lamb with Dried

Apricots and Cashews

Serves 6

12 dried apricots (about 3 ounces)

- Salt and freshly ground pepper

1½ pounds lamb shoulder or roast meat, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil

2 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 large onion, small dice

2 tablespoon Madras Indian Curry powder (or garam masala)

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 cup tomatoes (canned or diced fresh)

½ cup toasted cashews (reserve ¼ cup whole cashews for garnish)

2 cups chicken stock

2 tablespoon plain yogurt

2 scallions, sliced on the diagonal

In a food processor, grind the ¼ cup cashews until smooth. In a heat-proof bowl, soak the apricots in boiling water until plump, about 20 minutes. Drain.

Season the lamb with salt and pepper and put aside for 10 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoon of oil in a large nonstick skillet, sear the lamb pieces and cook over moderately high heat until browned, about 2 minutes per side. Add more oil if necessary. Transfer to a bowl.

Add the ginger, garlic, onion and remaining oil to the skillet and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the curry powder and cayenne, smoked paprika and tomatoes to cook, stirring until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the ground cashews and chicken stock and bring to simmer. Return the seared lamb and apricots into the stock mixture, simmer over low heat and cook the lamb for 30 minutes or until tender. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Remove the lamb pieces onto a platter. Bring the sauce to boil over medium heat until thickened, about 8 minutes, and stir in the yogurt. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Pour the sauce over the cooked lamb and scatter the scallions and reserved ¼ cup of whole cashews on top and served.

Basmati Rice with

Indian Spices & Saffron

Serves 4-6

¼ cup ghee or clarified butter

1 cup finely diced yellow onion

3-4 thin slices of fresh ginger

2 cinnamon stick

5 green cardamom pods

½ teaspoon coriander seeds

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

1½ cups basmati rice, rinse under cold running water until water runs clear

3 cups vegetable or chicken stock

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons saffron, steeped in ¼ cup water

½ cup unsalted dry-roasted cashews or almond nuts, optional

In a medium stock-pot, preheat the ghee or clarified butter and cook the onion and ginger for 3 minutes or until translucent.

Add the cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, coriander seeds and cumin seeds, stirring constantly for 1-2 minutes, then add the turmeric and rice, and continue stirring for 2 minutes or so.

Add the stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. As soon as the rice comes to a boil, reduce the heat to a low setting and cover with a lid. Steam the rice for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, turn off the heat and stir to mix the saffron water into the rice. Let the cooked rice stand for 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with cashews or almonds.

Malaysian Rempah Spice Paste

Makes 1 cup

10-15 dried small red chiles, seeded and stems removed

5 medium shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 stalks fresh lemongrass, outer skin removed and cut into 1-inch pieces

10 candlenuts, toasted

2 ounces fresh ginger

2 ounces fresh galangal (Thai ginger)

3 cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons shrimp paste

1 tablespoon palm sugar

¼ cup canola or peanut oil

1 teaspoon coriander powder

1 teaspoon cumin powder

1 tablespoon paprika powder

1 tablespoon turmeric powder

- Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Place the dried chiles in a small saucepot and add 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain off the ilquid.

Place the dried chiles, shallots, lemongrass, candlenut, ginger, galangal, garlic, shrimp paste and sugar in a food processor and process until a smooth paste.

Meanwhile, preheat a medium saucepan, add the oil, transfer the spice mixture into the oil and cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the coriander, cumin, paprika, turmeric, salt and pepper to season and blend well.

Transfer to an airtight container. Can be stored up to two weeks in the refrigerator or u to 2 months in the freezer.

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This delicious laksa dish is the signature comfort street food of Malaysia/Singapore and offered by street vendors and high-end dining establishments. All ingredients are available in Asian specialty markets.

Malaysian Seafood

Laksa Noodle Soup

Serves 6

For the laksa broth:

3 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil

4 tablespoons rempah paste or Thai Penang Curry paste (Mae Ploy Brand preferred)

2 stalks lemongrass, cut into 4 inches lengthwise, lightly bruised with the back of a knife

4 cup chicken or shrimp stock (homemade or store bought)

2 cups coconut milk

½ cup evaporated milk

3 tablespoon fish sauce (or more to taste)

1 tablespoon tamarind paste (or more to taste)

8 kaffir lime leaves, middle veins remove and thinly sliced

For seafood soup:

1 package fish balls or sliced fish cake

1 package dried tofu

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

12 fresh bay scallops

¼ cup fresh curry leaves, if available, stems removed

- Fresh ramen or pho or dried vermicelli noodles

For garnish:

3 hard boiled eggs, quartered

1 cup fresh bean sprout

¼ cup coarsely chopped green onion

1 cup sliced pineapple slices

¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro

¼ cup fresh mint leaves or basil or combination of both

¼ cup toasted peanuts Optional

To prepare laksa broth: In a large stockpot, add the oil and sauté the Rempah or Penang Curry Paste with the lemongrass with a tablespoon coconut milk and stir for 3 minutes or until fragrant. Add the chicken or shrimp stock and bring to a boil, simmer for 15 minutes, then add the remaining coconut milk and evaporated milk. Season with fish sauce and tamarind paste to taste, adjust the seasoning to balance the salt, sweet and sour flavor notes. Continue to simmer over low heat for 30 minutes until the flavor comes together. Add the kaffir lime leaves.

While the laksa broth is simmering in the pot, add the fish ball or cake and tofu puff to the broth and cook for 5 minutes, add the shrimp and scallop and continue to cook for 2 minutes more. Turn off the heat, discard the lemongrass and add the curry leaves.

Meanwhile, blanch the fresh noodles in boiling water for 3 minutes or until al dente. This will take longer if using dried noodles, so follow package instruction. Rinse the cooked noodles in cold running water and then drain.

To serve: Divide the noodles in small 6 individual soup bowls and distribute the fish ball/cake, shrimp and scallop evenly in each bowl. Ladle the hot laksa broth into the bowls, then garnish with egg, bean sprout, green onion, cilantro, pineapple, mint or basil and ground peanut. Serve immediately.

Staff Writer Diane Peterson can be reached at 707-521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com. On Twitter @dianepete56.