Pairings: Pinot a perfect match for smoked fish sandwich

Our Wine of the Week, Sangiacomo 2016 Sonoma Coast Roberts Road Vineyard Pinot Noir ($70), does exuberant cartwheels across your palate. It's the sort of wine that kicks up its heels, calls attention to itself and rewards you for paying attention.

On first sip, it's a bit reluctant to reveal itself, so much so that it benefits from decanting or at least opening an hour or so before enjoying it.

It's young, so it could be that thing called bottle shock, in which a pinot noir throws a bit of a temper tantrum at finding itself contained in so small a space.

Before long, though, its sassy flavors begin to unfold.

First, you'll notice a heady aromatic halo suggesting lilacs and violets, followed by enticing starbursts of pomegranate, cranberry, strawberry and mangosteen. Threading through these fruit flavors are suggestions of smoke, brambles and even a bit of black pepper.

It's both wild and thrilling, with silken tannins and substantial structure. No one would call this pinot noir wimpy.

It is tempting, with a pricey wine, to feel almost obligated to serve it in a formal setting, with a properly set table and a meal that requires considerable effort. And if you go this route, you will be rewarded: Seared duck breast with a suave sauce of Bing cherries and basil, rare rack of lamb with potato purée and roasted beets and spaghetti Carbonara with the best black pepper you can find will all flatter this gorgeous wine.

But you can go another route, too, with a voluptuous sandwich served on a cutting board with plenty of paper towels to wipe the drippings off your arms. It is an extraordinary match, best with smoked sturgeon but also good with other fish, such as Paul's Smoked Salmon. Enjoy it outside, as the sun sinks down behind the coastal range. The wine will thank you.

Smoked Fish BLT

Serves 2

4 thick slices of Revolution Bread whole wheat sourdough

1/2 cup best-quality mayonnaise

1-2 medium ripe heirloom tomatoes, cored and cut into 3/8-inch thick slices

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

4-6 ounces smoked sturgeon or smoked salmon, at room temperature

8 bacon slices, fried until crisp and drained

4 medium leaves butter lettuce

Have all the ingredients ready before you begin to build the sandwiches.

Toast the bread lightly and set it on a clean work surface.

Slather the mayonnaise over each slice of bread. It should take just one swipe per piece; do not rub the mayonnaise into the bread.

Layer tomatoes on 2 pieces of the bread, overlapping the slices slightly. Season with salt and pepper.

Break the fish into chunks and set it on top of the tomatoes; top the fish with the bacon.

Add lettuce, setting it on top of the bacon, and season it with a little salt.

Top both sandwiches with bread, mayonnaise side down.

Enjoy right away, with plenty of napkins alongside.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “The BLT Cookbook.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.