Pairing: Tomato pie and zinfandel

Our Wine of the Week, Kendall-Jackson 2012 Vintner’s Reserve Mendocino County Zinfandel ($17), is big, bold and spicy, with layers of dark berry flavors woven through with sweet spices and accented by a toasty richness.

The alcohol, 14.5 percent, is lower than a lot of contemporary California zinfandels, a quality that allows the flavors of the grape to fully emerge. If you’re used to high-alcohol zins, this one might seem a tad edgy, as high alcohol cushions the palate, dulling other flavors.

Lovers of this varietal will call it feisty, a confident wine in touch with itself, you could say.

When it comes to pairings, think ribs, pizza, spaghetti with rich sauces, duck ragout, polenta with sausages and fall tomatoes, the inspiration for today’s recipe. This version of one of my favorite recipes has a bit of heat, which cozies up nicely to the wine, furthering the match.

Fresh Tomato Pie

Serves 6

1½ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed fine

- Kosher salt

1 tablespoon baking powder

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) butter, chilled and cut into one-quarter inch cubes

½ cup whole milk

2½ pounds medium-sized ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, sliced, drained (see Note below)

- Black pepper in a mill

1 cup (4 ounces) grated cheese, such as St. George or Carmody

½ cup homemade or best-quality mayonnaise

- Juice of ½ lemon

1 teaspoon chipotle powder

2 to 3 tablespoons heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Sift or mix together the flour, pepper, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and the baking powder. Either by hand using a pastry blender or in a food processor, quickly work the butter into the flour mixture so that it has the consistency of coarse-grain sand. If using a food processor, add the milk, pulse quickly two or three times, until the dough just barely comes together, and then turn out onto a floured surface.

If working by hand, make a small well in the center of the flour, pour the milk in, and then mix quickly with a fork until the dough comes together but is still soft and sticky. Turn onto a floured surface.

Knead the dough for about 30 seconds, and then let it rest for 10 minutes. Cut the dough in half, roll out one half to fit an 8- or 9-inch pie pan, and line the pan with it.

Layer the tomatoes and cheese in the pie shell, beginning with tomatoes, sprinkling them with a little salt and pepper and topping with about a third of the cheese.

When all of the tomatoes have been used, the pie should be very high.

Combine the mayonnaise with the lemon juice and chipotle powder and spread it over the top. Quickly roll out the reserved dough, fit it over the pie, and seal the edges by pinching them together. Cut several slits in the dough to allow steam to escape and brush the dough with the heavy cream.

Bake about 40 minutes, until the dough is golden brown. Remove from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes before serving. Cut into wedges and serve warm.

Note: After peeling, seeding and slicing the tomatoes, layer them in a wide colander, sprinkle with a little salt and let the juices drain into a wide shallow bowl.

Use the juices in another dish or simply drink them.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 17 books , including 'Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings.' You’ll find her blog, 'Eat This Now,' at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com. Email her at michele@saladdresser.com.