Pairings: A chardonnay that loves shellfish

There was a time, two or three decades ago, when big, blousy, buttery chardonnays, such as our Wine of the Week, Ziata 2016 Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay ($50), was the default style for the varietal in California. It remains the absolute favorite of many chardonnay fans, who will find this one absolutely delightful.

It is a bit brazen and even slightly decadent, with its rich layers of butterscotch, crème caramel, baked apple and ripe honeydew melon. There are veins of honey, too, along with suggestions of cardamom, nutmeg and ginger. Whispers of cumin come and go, as if they are peeking out from behind a curtain.

Amid all these dramatic elements is a backbone of acidity, which keeps the wine lively and bright and facilitates success at the table. The wine’s soulmate is corn, especially corn custard, preferably topped with seared scallops and a drizzle of beurre noisette, or browned butter. Corn chowder, with or without wild Pacific King salmon, is a great match, too. Creamy polenta topped with roasted pork tenderloin facilitates the wine blossoming into its full self.

The wine is an excellent companion to roast chicken, too, especially if the chicken is basted with butter and apple cider as it cooks.

These are all conservative matches, guaranteed to please just about anyone. But why play it safe with such a racy wine? It’s a natural with shellfish and pairs beautifully with coconut. So for today’s recipe, I’ve added a bit of heat and an earthy flourish of turmeric, which you can now find fresh in such markets as Oliver’s, Pacific, and Asia Mart, where you also will find the tamarind juice. Be sure to taste as you cook and don’t let the heat of the chiles overpower the other ingredients. When you get it just right, both the shrimp and the wine soar.

Turmeric-Coconut Shrimp ?with Jasmine Rice

Serves 3 to 4 (when served with several other dishes)

1 large stalk lemongrass, stalks discarded

1 1/4 cup coconut milk

2 tablespoons peeled and chopped fresh turmeric, pounded to a paste

1 Thai chile, stemmed, crushed and minced

1-2 tablespoons tamarind juice (the consistency of fruit concentrate)

1 teaspoon palm sugar, plus more to taste

- Kosher salt, to taste

1 tablespoon coconut oil

1 shallot, minced

1 pound medium shrimp, preferably wild, shelled and butterflied

1 orange or red serrano, stemmed and cut into very thin slivers

3 fresh kaffir lime leaves, cut into very thin, inch-long slivers

2 cups (from about 3/4 cup raw) steamed jasmine rice, hot

Trim and discard the woody bottom tip of the lemongrass and remove 2 or 3 of the fibrous outer layers. Cut the less fibrous inner stalk at a sharp angle into very thin, long oval slices (it should yield about 3 tablespoons).

Heat the coconut milk in a saucepan set over medium heat until it begins to boil. Add the turmeric paste, lemongrass and minced Thai chile. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with tamarind, palm sugar and salt, remove from the heat, cover and keep warm.

Set a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the coconut oil and sauté until just fragrant, about 3 minutes. Season lightly with salt.

Add the shrimp, cook them for about 1 minute, turn and cook for 1 minute more, until they just lose their raw look. Add half the chile slivers and remove from the heat.

Tip the shrimp mixture into the coconut milk mixture. Add half the kaffir lime leaf slivers.

Working quickly, divide the rice among individual soup bowls and ladle the mixture over the rice, dividing the shrimp as evenly as possible.

Garnish with the remaining kaffir lime leaves and slivered chiles and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.