Seasonal Pantry: Using Sebastopol’s signature fruit, the Gravenstein

Two weekends ago, Sebastopol’s signature fruit was celebrated at the 45th annual Gravenstein Apple Fair. From my vantage point as a participant, it was one of the most successful fairs ever, with more local vendors than vendors from out of the area and a genuine and enthusiastic tribute to our beloved apple.

There has been a big shift at the fair. In the wine and cider tent, for example, it was fast and easy to snag a glass of wine but a pretty long wait to get a glass of cider. This year, there were 17 ciders offered, up from just a single one a few years ago.

Another change was the cancellation of the Chef’s Tent, where several chefs gave cooking demonstrations on both days of the fair. Cooking demonstrations are, by definition, passive entertainment, and I appreciate a new option - the DIY area. It offered an opportunity, should the presenter want to take it, to get the audience involved in a hands-on way. I had a dozen people making butter and twice that many making apple cider vinaigrette. It was chaotic, fun and delicious and I tip my parasol - it was much too hot for a hat - to Carmen Snyder, executive director of FarmTrails, which puts on the fair, for adding it. I hope to see it grow, just as the cider offerings have.

The Gravenstein apple is the first apple of the year to ripen, and it has a very short season. It does not keep well and turns soft fairly quickly; it is not built for storage, but for immediate pleasure.

It is one of the most flavorful apples in the world. Enjoy it fresh now and then look for Gravenstein juice, cider and applesauce until its season comes around again next July.

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We made this simple vinaigrette in just minutes at the fair. It is delicious on salad greens, of course, but also on grilled chicken, grilled zucchini, fresh tomatoes and almost anything else that is in season right now.

Apple Cider Vinaigrette

Makes ? cup

2 tablespoons apple juice, preferably Gravenstein juice

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Put the apple juice and vinegar into a small jar or bowl, add the salt and several generous turns of black pepper, and stir to dissolve the salt. Mix in the olive oil, and use right away.

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This vinaigrette takes just minutes to make, and you can cut the time by omitting the shallot, a good idea if you don’t have any.

There is no reason to run to the store for one. It is adapted from one in my book “Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings” (Harvard Common Press, 2014, $17.95). EarthWorker Farm greens are available on Sundays at the Sebastopol farmers market.

Grapefruit-Apple Cider Vinaigrette with EarthWorker Farm Greens

Make 6 to 8 servings

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons freshly squeeze grapefruit juice

2 tablespoons local apple cider vinegar

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3-4 ounces EarthWorker Farm greens, preferably Mark Twang mix

Put the shallot into a small wide-mouthful jar or small bowl, add the grapefruit juice, vinegar, cardamom and a generous pinch of salt and set aside for a few minutes.

Taste the mixture and add a pinch of sugar if the flavor of grapefruit hasn’t blossomed.

Add several turns of black pepper, pour in the olive oil, close the jar with its lid and shake well (if using a bowl, stir with a fork). Taste, correct for salt, and use right away.

This vinaigrette will keep for a day but is best right after it is made.

To make the salad, put the greens into a bowl and season lightly with salad. Add the dressing, toss, and enjoy right away.

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If this year unfolds as most other years do, we have a lot of hot days ahead before late fall sets in. Spritzers are one delicious way to keep cool and hydrated; this one takes just a minute or two to make.

Simple Apple Cider Vinegar Spritzer

Makes 1 serving

- Ice

- Sparkling water

1 tablespoons apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste

- Simple syrup to taste

- Lemon thyme sprigs, optional

Fill a large glass with ice. Add sparkling water, leaving about an inch and a half of space at the top. Add a tablespoon of vinegar, a splash of simple syrup and stir.

Taste and adjust, adding more vinegar and/or more simple syrup until it tastes perfect to you. Tuck in a sprig of thyme, if using, and enjoy.

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Shrubs - the vinegar and fruit drink - have a long history and can be made with any stone fruit or berry. This one takes just a few minutes, especially if you use an egg slicer to slice the strawberries. Once it is strained, it will keep almost indefinitely in the refrigerator

Strawberry Shrub

Makes about 6 cups

4 cups ripe strawberries, stemmed and sliced

4 cups apple cider vinegar

- Simple syrup

- Ice

- Sparkling water

Put the strawberries into a large glass jar, add the apple cider vinegar and let sit at room temperature for at least an hour. (You can refrigerate the mixture for up to 4 days.)

Strain the liquid into a clean jar. Set aside the strawberries to use in chutney.

Taste the liquid, and add simple syrup until it is sweet enough to suit you.

Fill a glass with ice, add about ½ cup of shrub and then fill to the top with sparkling water. Stir and enjoy.

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Although I have been making this sauce for many years, I keep coming up with new ways to enjoy it. Most recently, I spooned some over vanilla ice cream and was delighted by the result.

Apple Cider ?Vinegar Sauce

Makes about ¾ cup

3 cups apple juice

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon whole white peppercorns

½ cup apple cider

2 tablespoons butter, optional

Pour 2 cups of the apple juice into a medium saucepan, add the peppercorns and simmer over medium heat until the juice is reduced to about ½ cup.

Add the remaining apple juice and the vinegar and reduce until you have about ¾ cup. Strain, discard the peppercorns and return to the pan.

Swirl in the butter, if using, and enjoy right away.

Suggested uses

With the butter, over grilled or roasted chicken or quail.

With the butter, over seared foie gras.

With the butter, over baked or roasted sweet potatoes.

Without the butter, over very cold vanilla ice cream or black pepper ice cream.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 24 books to date. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.