Pairing: Wine of the week’s smoky flavor goes well with meat

Our Wine of the Week, Chappellet 2016 Proprietor’s Blend Mountain Cuvée ($36), is a lovely example of a Bordeaux-style blend from a California appellation. It has beautiful structure, with a textural foundation that is suave and silky, without harsh or rough tannins.

The varietals complement and highlight each other, with flavors of blueberries from merlot, black and white pepper from cabernet sauvignon and a cupboard full of spices from the other varietals. There are hints of star anise, clove, allspice and dried sage, with whispers of vanilla and whiffs of smoke. You’ll also notice ripe Bing cherry, black currants and black raspberries.

In cooler weather, beef and game are among the best pairings, with anything from beef tenderloin topped with olive tapenade to beef stew, wild boar sausage and venison stew flattering the wine. Game hens stuffed with polenta that has been spiked with olive and garlic is a good match, too, as are slow-cooked ragouts over a broad pasta such as pappardelle.

In warm weather, look to the grill, as the hint of smoke it conveys to most foods is a tantalizing match. Grilled eggplant, sweet onions, sweet peppers and tomatoes all welcome the wine alongside. Slather on a bit of blueberry barbecue sauce and the match sparkles.

Today’s recipe is similar but not identical to teriyaki. You’ll notice that no sauce is added after the chicken is cooked, as too much sauce will interfere with the wine. It is important to let the chicken marinate long enough that it absorbs the subtle flavors within the marinade. And be sure to cool down the wine a bit if it seems particularly warm. Red wine should be served at cellar temperature - around 58 to 60 degrees - not room temperature.

Asian-Style Barbecued Chicken

Makes 6 servings

6 chicken leg-thigh pieces

- Kosher salt

2/3 cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

3 garlic cloves, crushed and minced

3 tablespoons sugar

1 star anise, broken into pieces

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

- Black pepper in a mill

1 cup dry sake

- Juice of 1 orange

- Olive oil

1 orange, in wedges

- Steamed rice of choice (white, brown, red or black)

Rinse the chicken under cool water and pat dry with a tea towel. Season lightly all over with kosher salt, arrange in a single layer in a glass dish and set aside, briefly.

Put the soy sauce, ginger, garlic and sugar into a small saucepan set over low heat, and stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved. Add the star anise, red pepper flakes, several turns of black pepper, sake and orange juice. Stir, remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Pour the marinade over the chicken and turn the chicken over several times to coat each piece thoroughly. Refrigerate, covered, at least 8 hours and as long as 24 hours. Turn the chicken, now and then, in the marinade.

About 45 minutes before cooking, remove the chicken from the refrigerator and prepare a fire in a charcoal grill. Arrange the grill rack about 4 to 5 inches above the coals and coat with olive oil.

When the coals are evenly covered with white ash, remove the chicken from the liquid and brush off excess marinade. Arrange the chicken, skin side down, on the grill and cook for 5 minutes. Rotate 90 degrees and cook 15 minutes more. Turn the chicken over and cook another 15 to 20 minutes, until juices run clear when the chicken is pricked at its thickest point. Transfer to a platter, cover loosely with foil and let rest 10 to 15 minutes. Garnish with orange wedges and enjoy right away, with rice alongside.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 24 books to date. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.