Wine of the week: Chardonnay a blank canvas

Chardonnay is a blank canvas of sorts. That’s how Ames Morison, the winemaker of Healdsburg’s Medlock Ames, sees it.

“There is a saying that great wine is made in the vineyard,” Morison said. “This is least true for chardonnay. More than any other variety, chardonnay is made in the winery. In many ways it is like a blank canvas that the winemaker has the opportunity to paint any way he likes. It is easily adapted to any number of styles.”

Morison is behind our wine-of-the-week winner - the Medlock Ames, 2013 Bell Mountain Estate, Russian River Valley Chardonnay at $27.

“Our chardonnay house style has changed significantly in recent years, and that change has really been driven by a change in the way we think about chardonnay,” Morison said. “Our goal is to make a chardonnay that preserves the freshness of the fruit. The 2013 has an almost sauvignon blanc intensity that really captures the essence of our mountain fruit. We’ve found that when we keep this in mind, everything falls into place.”

Morison said the most gratifying part of producing chardonnay is tasting it out of the barrel soon after harvest.

“Chardonnay has a bit more substance than other summery white wines,” he said.

“I love drinking it right now because it makes me think about autumn and harvest,” he said. “It helps me get in the proper frame of mind for the busy harvest season.“

What gave Medlock Ames the edge in the blind tasting is its bright fruit and lush texture.

“It satisfies on such a primal level,” Morison said. “Taking one sip makes you want to take another. .?.?. I’m personally passionate about this wine because it represents so beautifully all of the hard work that our entire team has put into the vineyard and winery over the past few years.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com.

Wine of the Week: Scouting for the Tastiest White Wines

Wine writer Peg Melnik had a blind tasting this week of a range of whites that included chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. While several were top-rate, the standout was the Medlock Ames, 2013 Bell Mountain Estate, Russian River Valley Chardonnay at $27.

TOP PICK:

Medlock Ames 2013 Bell Mountain Estate, Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 13.9% alcohol, $27. ????

1/2. A striking chardonnay with a great concentration of fruit and a lush texture. There’s quite a range here - apple, pear, creme brulee and hazelnut. Lingering finish. Knockout.

Other impressive wines

Armida Winery, 2013 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc, 14.1%, $20. ????

A sauvignon blanc that’s crisp and edgy. Aromas and flavors of grapefruit, lime and a hint of jalapeño. Has great mineral and citrus notes. This one will turn heads.

Three Sticks, 2012 Origin Durell Vineyard, Chardonnay, 14.6%, $50. ????

A complex chardonnay with great intensity. Notes of stone fruit, mineral and honeysuckle.

Husch, 2013 Mendocino Chenin Blanc, 13.2%, $12. ???

1/2 A chenin blanc with bright fruit, but it’s a touch sweet. Good length. Can’t beat the price.

Ferrari-Carano, 2013 Sonoma County Fume Blanc, 13.8%, $14. ???

1/2 A fume blanc with plenty going on. Notes of grapefruit, pear, Meyer lemon and white peach. Crisp acid. Nice length.