Wine of the week: La Crema, 2013 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Pinot noir is a bit of a diva.

That’s how Elizabeth Grant-Douglas, winemaker of La Crema winery, sees it.

“Gentle handing is absolutely required in order to bring out all the nuances,” she said.

Grant-Douglas is behind our wine-of-the-week winner - the La Crema, 2013 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir at $25.

This is a sleek pinot with bright, concentrated Bing cherry fruit, coupled with crisp acid. There’s a hint of mineral and white pepper in the mix. This is a standout, a smart pick for the price.

“La Crema’s hallmark is our supple, elegant texture,” Grant-Douglas said. “We aim to deliver that sensory experience every time.”

The most challenging part of making pinot noir is that it requires kid-glove treatment, Grant-Douglas said.

“Our philosophy is to be as gentle as possible when we work with these grapes in order to coax the truest flavors and textures from the fruit,” she said. “At La Crema, we use small-batch techniques every step of the way, from hand sorting to using a basket press.”

This pinot fared well, to a large degree, because of the great vintage, Grant-Douglas said.

“Conditions in 2013 were ideal, with some cool weather late in the growing season that helped slow down the ripening process and allowed the grapes to develop concentration and lush texture,” she said.

As director of winemaking at La Crema, Grant-Douglas began in 2001 as the enologist. She became winemaker in 2010 and named to her current post in 2013.

“My interest in wine was sparked early on, growing up in Niagara Falls, Canada,” she said. “My father had a hobby vineyard in the back yard and was a home winemaker. But I never realized it could be a career.”

Grant-Douglas first studied economics at the University of Waterloo in Ontario. As she was wrapping up that degree, her father, who had created an enology department at Brock University, encouraged her to give winemaking a chance.

“My father told me, ‘If I was your age, I’d look into this.’ It meant starting over again, but I was part of the first graduating class of Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture program.”

As for what makes this winemaker a great fit for the field, Grant-Douglas said it’s full throttle enthusiasm.

“I could list technical skills, or things like attention to detail - but it really comes down to passion,” she said.

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This week’s blind tasting: Mixed reds

TOP PICK

La Crema, 2013 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, 13.5% alcohol, $25. ????:

This is a sleek pinot noir with concentrated Bing cherry fruit, coupled with crisp acid. A hint of mineral and white pepper in the mix. It’s a smart pick. A standout.

TASTY ALTERNATIVES

Michael David Winery, 2013 Bechthold Vineyard, Lodi, Ancient Vine Cinsault, 14.5%, $25. ????

: This is a generous Rhone red with tangy fruit. Gorgeous notes of raspberry, cranberry, pomegranate, and spicy cracked black pepper.

Rodney Strong, 2012 Reserve Alexander Valley Sonoma Country Cabernet Sauvignon, 15 percent, $28. ????

: A supple cab with black currant fruit and layered flavors of sandalwood and white pepper. Lovely.

Sequoia Grove, 2012 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.2%, $38. ????

: A complex cab with ripe tannins. Aromas and flavors of blackberry, forest floor and pepper. Nice length. Impressive.

Foppiano Vineyards, 2011 Russian River Valley Petite Sirah, 14.9%, $25. ????

: A full-bodied petite sirah with bold cherry and blackberry fruit. A zesty undercurrent of spice, with a hint of mocha. Great character. Fruit-driven, with subtle spice. Tasty.

Saxon Brown, 2010 Parmelee-Hill Owl Box Block, Sonoma Coast Syrah, 14.5%, $38. ????

1/2: A full throttle syrah with a supple texture. Elegant, with notes of blueberry and violet. Striking.