Pairings: Gewurztraminer with vegetable biryani

Our Wine of the Week, Thomas Fogarty 2012 Monterey County Gewurztraminer ($19), is so very pretty, with an evocative brightness on the palate that feels like a spring morning, with fragrant flowers in bloom everywhere. If you pay attention, you may notice hints of honeysuckle and orange blossoms in the wine's bouquet and flavors of lychee, rambutan, pomelo, lime zest and fresh galangal root on the palate.

The wine is delicate, a whisper not a scream. But what it is saying couldn't be more clear: Please, pair me with sweet spices, with coconut and dried fruit, with salty nuts and vegetables that have been roasted to concentrate their flavors.

It is saying biryani, a somewhat elaborate Indian rice dish. You don't have to go that route to enjoy the wine; it is a great aperitif, with, say, Marcona almonds and dried apricots alongside. It is also excellent with dal, chicken masala and almost any kind of mild curry. It is also lovely with traditional Peruvian ceviche.

But the marriage made in heaven, the pairing that makes the wine soar, is biryani. Please don't be intimidated by the long list of ingredients; it is not a complicated recipe, just one with layers of delicate flavor. No special skill is required to make it successfully.

Vegetable Biryani

Makes 6 servings

1 cup cauliflower florets

1 cup broccoli florets

1 small sweet potato, peeled and cut into thin half rounds

2 medium carrots, preferably white or pale yellow, peeled and cut into thin half rounds

5 tablespoons clarified butter

- Kosher salt

1 teaspoon white mustard seeds

1 large onion, peeled, trimmed and grated on the large blade of a box grater

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne or other ground hot chile, to taste

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, crushed

- Black pepper in a mill

1 14-ounce can coconut milk, to taste

3 1/2 cups cooked basmati rice, cooled

1/2 cup raisins

1/4 cup diced dried apricots

1/2 cup roasted and salted cashews

4 tablespoons fresh mint, very thinly sliced

4 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves, minced

- Several saffron threads

1/2 cup vegetable stock, preferably homemade

1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt or raita (see Note below)

- Homemade or commercial chutney of choice

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Put the cauliflower, broccoli, sweet potato and carrots into an oven proof pan, drizzle with about 2 tablespoons of the clarified butter, toss, season with salt and set in the oven. Roast until the vegetables are just tender when pierced with a fork or bamboo skewer, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, put the remaining clarified butter into a heavy skillet set over medium heat, add the mustard seeds to the skillet, cook 2 minutes, add the onion, reduce the heat and cook until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and saute 2 minutes more. Season lightly with salt, stir in the ginger, turmeric, cayenne, coriander, cardamom and several generous turns of black pepper.

Stir in the coconut milk, cover the pan and simmer 15 minutes, until the coconut milk has thickened.

Fold in the roasted vegetables.

If the coconut milk has not thickened, simmer uncovered over high heat for 3 to 5 minutes.

Put the rice in a large bowl and use a fork to fluff it. Add the raisins, dried apricots and cashews and toss gently but thoroughly. Add half the mint and half the cilantro leaves and toss again.

Put saffron into a small bowl and pour the stock over it; set aside briefly.

Spread rice over bottom of a baking dish, spoon the vegetables on top and drizzle stock over everything. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil and bake until it is sizzling hot, about 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and let rest, covered, for about 10 minutes.

To serve, divide among individual plates and garnish with remaining mint and cilantro. Serve immediately, with yogurt or raita and chutney alongside.

Note: Raita is a common condiment in India and is very easy to make at home. It can be as simple as minced cucumbers, salt, pepper and yogurt. For raita recipes, visit "Eat This Now" at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.

Michele Anna Jordan hosts "Mouthful" each Sunday at 7 p.m. on KRCB 90.9 & 91.1 FM. E-mail Jordan at michele@micheleannajordan.com. You'll find her blog, "Eat This Now," at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.