TAMING THE WILD AROMAS OF SAUVIGNON BLANC

Sauvignon blanc can be a savage beast, according to Ames Morison of Healdsburg's Medlock Ames.

"Sauvignon blanc is intensely aromatic," Morison said. "That's what I love most about it, but if not carefully managed, sauvignon blanc can produce some wild aromas. The name of the variety offers a clue to its nature: 'savage.'"

Morison is the winemaker behind our wine-of-the-week winner, the Medlock Ames, 2013 Bell Mountain Vineyard, Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc at $27.

This wine is a knockout. On one hand you have grapefruit and lemon, on the other you have pineapple and guava. But these aromas and flavors work together seamlessly, especially with its underpinning of crisp acidity.

What makes it a standout, Morison said, is the vineyard site.

"All grape varieties are influenced by where they are grown, but sauvignon blanc is the most extreme example of this," he said. "It really is made in the vineyard. Subtle changes in temperature, fruit exposure and crop load have big impacts on the wine."

Morison said the most exciting part of making sauvignon blanc is the instant gratification.

"We release our sauvignon blanc a few months after harvest," he said. "It's wonderful to be able to taste the vintage so quickly."

The winemaker said he's an absolute fan of sauvignon blanc. "It's definitely one of my personal favorites," he said. "There is no better way to capture the essence of summer."

Morison said he followed his passion into the wine business.

"When I was 26, I began drinking wine and very quickly became obsessed with it," he said. "I grew up on a farm, so the connection between the soil and the wonderful aromas in the glass is magical to me. I remember drinking a glass of wine one evening and realizing that it was my calling in life.

"That was an epiphany. Within two months I moved to California from New York to pursue my dream."