Gloria Ferrer's irresistible pinot

Although Gloria Ferrer Winery is best known for its lovely sparkling wines, its still wines, including our Wine of the Week, Gloria Ferrer 2006 Carneros Pinot Noir ($22), are every bit as engaging and delightful as the sparklers.

I discovered this pinot noir the first year it was released, in the early 1990s. It was a well-kept secret at that point, and over the brief 10 months that the delightful Sapphire Mynx restaurant reigned in Sebastopol, I must have enjoyed a couple of cases. At $17 a bottle, it was impossible to resist.

All these years later, the wine remains irresistible to anyone who loves the delicate allure of the varietal. Gloria Ferrer does a fabulous job with it.

This vintage is bright and pretty, with subtle aromas of violet, rose petals, sweet peas and a suggestion of warm spice. On the palate, there's a swirl of flavors from Rainier cherries and ripe pomegranates to herbs suggestive of sweet basil and, just maybe, Mexican oregano.

The wine's texture is just what you want, all silky smoothness, with the bright acidity that suggests the rustle of taffeta.

A pinot noir like this one shows the best qualities of the varietal, including its remarkable ability to engage with a huge array of foods. The first tomatoes — the tiny Sungolds — with burrata and olive oil is a lovely match, as is almost anything with wild king salmon. Rare duck is always a great match with pinot noir, as are mushrooms, especially wild ones.

For today's recipe, I've focused again on the large gulf shrimp that Dave Legros sells at farmers markets in Healdsburg and Sebastopol. Paired with mushrooms, browned butter and creme fraiche, the shrimp form a match that delights on every level, from the way the textures play off each other to the harmony of the flavors.

Gulf Shrimp and Mushrooms in Brown Butter & Creme Fraiche

Serves 6 as an appetizer

5 tablespoons local organic butter

1 small shallot minced

3 to 4 ounces mushrooms of choice, such as Trumpet Royale, Velvet Pioppini, black chanterelle, in small pieces

— Kosher salt

? cup dry white wine

12 large gulf shrimp, heads and legs removed

1/3 cup creme fraiche

— Black pepper in a mill

1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives

Put 4 tablespoons of the butter into a medium saute pan set over medium heat, melt and continue to cook until it begins to brown; do not let it smoke. Remove from the heat for about 1 minute. Return to medium low heat, add the shallot and saute until soft, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and saute until wilted. Season with salt, increase the heat to high, add the white wine and simmer until the wine is nearly gone.

Add the shrimp, saute on one side for 1 minute, turn and saute until just turning opaque, about 90 seconds more. Do not overcook.

Working quickly, divide the shrimp among individual plates. Return the pan to the heat, add the remaining tablespoon of butter and the creme fraiche and simmer gently for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with black pepper, taste and correct for salt.

Spoon the sauce over the shrimp, sprinkle with chives and serve immediately.

Michele Anna Jordan hosts "Mouthful" each Sunday at 7 p.m. on KRCB 90.9 & 91.1 FM. E-mail Jordan at michele@ micheleannajordan.com.