Your bologna has a fancy new first name, and it's charcuterie. Unlike the lunchbox fare most of us grew up with, preserved meats - called charcuterie by the French - are finally getting the respect they deserve.
Considered an art form in many European cultures, charcutiers or salumists were the guys who, before refrigeration ever existed, could salt, smoke and dry meats so they'd last for months rather than days. This handy skill also made use of some of the less appetizing animal parts, leaving nothing to waste.
A new breed of charcutier is springing up all around the Bay Area, learning from Italian and French masters, but putting their own uniquely American spin on the trade. Among them, Chris Costentino (Incanto), Ryan Farr (4505 Meats), Taylor Boetticher (Fatted Calf) and the North Bay's Franco Dunn and Dino Bugica (Santi/Diavola) and John Stewart (Black Pig Meat, Zazu, Bovolo).
Pig tends to be their meat of choice, though duck, rabbit, beef, goat, wild boar, venison and other animals make an appearance. What they're making: Everything from rich country p?? and sausages to salumi (a family of Italian dried-meat products that includes sopressata, bresaola, prosciutto and salami) and bacon, many of which are studded with local herbs and fruits and exotic spices.
Ready to dive in? Charcuterie boards are becoming de rigeur at many restaurants and bistros, either as a way to showcase the chef's own skills with preserving meats or simply to enhance the hip-factor of the restaurant. Here's what to look for...
P??: The most famous (or infamous) p?? are made with foie gras, a fattened duck or goose liver. Usually smooth in consistency and mixed with herbs or wine, p??can be made with a variety of meats including rabbit, duck, goose or with vegetables.
Rillettes: Similar to p?? rillettes are made from meat cooked in lard, then shredded and pounded into a paste.
Lardo: Though its rare to find, lardo is just that -- pork fat.? Often cured with rosemary, it's cut into thin white slices that melt in your mouth. Don't think about the calories.
Nduja: A spreadable, spicy salami.
Sopressata: Dry-cured salami often made with red wine
Bresaola: Air dried beef
Pancetta: Cured pork belly that's similar to American bacon, but is not smoked.
Mortadella: A cousin to bologna, mortadella is a type of sausage studded with pistachios, olives and chunks of fat.
Prosciutto: A type of uncooked Italian ham (made from the leg of the pig)
Where to find charcuterie plates in Sonoma County:
Monti's Rotisserie and Bar: A rare sighting of Nduja on the charcuterie menu. 714 Village Court, Santa Rosa, 568-4404.
Estate/Girl & The Fig: Chef John Toulze is making much of his own charcuterie for the restaurant and occasionally teaches classes. 400 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 933-3663 or 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 938-3634.
Jackson's Bar and Oven: Chef Josh Silvers puts together an artisan salumi and cheese board, 135 4th Street, Santa Rosa, 545-6900
Restaurant Charcuterie: Traditional charcuterie with pork p?? salami and duck rillette, 335 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 431-7213
Zazu/Bovolo: John Stewart is one of the top salumists in the North Bay, serving up his wares at his restaurants and his bacon at G & G Market. Zazu: 3535 Guerneville Road, Santa Rosa, 523-4814; Bovolo: 106 Matheson Street, Healdsburg, 431-2962
Santi/Diavolo: Both Santi and Diavolo have sold house-made salumi for years, including the sometimes appearance of lardo (on pizza at Diavolo!). Diavolo: 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 814-0111.
Check out Heather's always-updated food and dining blog at BiteClubEats .com or email her at heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com.
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