Bike the bridge

Bicycling cross the Golden Gate Bridge, high above San Francisco Bay, has become a mainstream thrill for hordes of cyclists, both local and visiting.

The Indian summer days of fall are the best, when the icy winds calm a bit and the fog loses its ferocity. Folks can rent spokes at several places along the waterfront and easily pedal along the bay's edge in San Francisco, past Fort Mason and Crissy Field, up over the bridge, then down into sunny Sausalito, where they can return via ferry.

"For people who only have a half-day free, or aren't strong bikers, we strongly promote going over the bridge," said Jeff Sears, owner of Blazing Saddles of San Francisco. "They all come back and say it was the highlight of the trip."

Ten or 15 years ago, most two-wheeled tourists headed out to Golden Gate Park and Land's End, a much more strenuous route. Now, Sears said that 95 percent of his clients choose to ride over the bridge.

"It started to snowball when the Presidio turned into a National Park in the mid to late '90s," he said. "The Haas family donated the money for the bike paths and restored the Crissy Field marsh."

With warmer weather on its way, this is the perfect time for North Bay bicyclists to learn what all the fuss is about. If you're making a day trip, dress in layers — including a windbreaker — bring some snacks and cash for lunch, and don't forget your camera.

The Golden Gate ride offers breathtaking views of the Marin Headlands, Alcatraz and the waterfront. But the main attraction, of course, is the bridge itself.

If you've got your own bike and rack, you can start your trip on the north side of the bridge and head south to the city; you won't have to pay the bridge toll. Heading south on Highway 101, you'll find free parking on the northwest side of the bridge, in the Marin Headlands parking lot just off the last (Sausalito) exit.

On a recent weekday in August, Fernando Ramirez and his younger sister, Karina, of Petaluma celebrated the tail-end of summer by riding across the bridge.

"I expected it to take a lot longer," said Fernando, who is enrolling as a freshman at UC San Diego this fall. "But it's not as long as you think it is."

"It was hard on the way there, because the wind was against us," Karina said. "But on the way back, it was easy."

Before 3:30 p.m. on weekdays, the west side of the bridge is closed for a major retrofitting project. That means that you have to carry your bike under the bridge to get to the east side, not difficult if you're in reasonable shape. But heading over the bridge during that time frame — when both cyclists and walkers are squeezed onto the east side of the bridge — can feel a bit like bumper cars jockeying for position. On weekends, bikes are once again allowed on the west side, which has traditionally been their domain.

Because you're riding next to a lane of oncoming traffic, be prepared for vehicles to throw up some dust and grit; wear sunglasses, even if it's foggy, to protect your eyes. Meanwhile, watch out for the bicyclists headed north over the bridge, as well as the clumps of tourists on foot, who tend to meander back and forth.

If you're patient, however, the pathway will eventually open up, and you will be able to ride freely again. Once you're over the bridge, it's pretty much clear sailing. Just follow the bike path and the arrows pointing down, down, down to Fort Point and Crissy Field.

There, you can reward yourself with a pit stop at The Warming Hut. Especially on cool, foggy days, the hut is the perfect place for bicyclists to fuel up on a sandwich and a cup of coffee.

On a Tuesday in mid-August, Andy Hodgkinson of England stopped at The Warming Hut with his wife and 12-year-old daughter after successfully navigating the bridge in both directions.

"It was fantastic," the triathlete said of the trip. "My wife and daughter are not cyclists, but they did really well."

After The Warming Hut, the bike ride settles into a nice groove as the traffic noise dies away and the gravel path wends its way through the restored salt-marsh ecosystem of Crissy Field.

Crissy Field Center, which opened in 2001 as a learning center for the community, also houses a small snack bar, The Beach Hut Cafe, that is open to the public.

Continuing on, the bike path re-enters civilization at the Marina district. Harbor Beach Snacks, a small kiosk located next to the water, attracts bicyclists just starting out on their trip from Fisherman's Wharf.

On a chilly day in August, a group of bicyclists from Denmark were huddled together by the snack shack, enjoying some organic hot dogs and veggie dogs.

"We'll head over the bridge and then we'll catch the ferry back," said Lisbeth Asserhoj of Denmark. "By the time we get over the bridge, I don't think we'll want to ride back. ... It's cold."

Just west of Fort Mason, you'll find a bike-rental concession, Wheel Fun Rentals, in a parking lot where parking is free for most of the day.

Joel Johnson, a mechanic and salesman for Wheel Fun, suggested families with kids rent tandem bikes, since the second person rides for just $5 extra.

For families heading over the bridge to Sausalito, Sears suggests a small detour through East Fort Baker, on the way down to Sausalito.

"That's a lot more scenic," he said. "It takes 10 or 15 minutes longer, but you get away from the traffic."

While cruising through Fort Baker, families can also check out the Bay Area Discovery Museum (baykidsmuseum.org). Cavallo Point Lodge, located uphill from the museum, offers a new Healing Arts Center and Spa that is open to the public for wellness retreats.

Ambitious cyclists headed all the way to Tiburon may want to make a stop at the Richardson Bay Audubon Center, or take a side trip to see the redwoods.

"We've been pushing people to go to Tiburon and go visit the redwood trees in Old Mill Park in Mill Valley," Sears said. "You go to the base of Mount Tam."

Between the redwoods and sea, it's going to be tempting to ride your bike and take photos at the same time. Our advice? Don't even think about it.

"There have been some wrecks," Sears said. "An Italian guy using his video camera once ran into a post."

You can reach Staff Writer Diane Peterson at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat

.com.