During the year's darkest days, when it feels like the sun will disappear entirely, we want comfort food. It is a time to enjoy rich stews and braises, hearty soups, polenta, risotto and hot beverages like chai, mulled wine, buttered tequila and lamb's wool, a British drink traditionally served on Twelfth Night.
Although the winter solstice occurred several hours ago, we won't immediately notice that the days are lengthening. By the beginning of January, we see the difference.
Celebrations like Twelfth Night that occur in the first week of January have their roots in the return of light, which pagan cultures celebrated long ago.
Hearty comfort foods will be welcome for months, but I always enjoy them the most now, when their bone-warming comfort is a good hedge against the darkness. Bring me barley soup, slow-cooked lamb shanks and roast beef with Yorkshire pudding.
This year I've been thinking about shepherd's pie and all its variations. Simply put, it is a way to use leftover meats, with versions found around the world.
Most consist of chopped or ground meat mixed with vegetables and topped with potatoes, usually but not always mashed.
Today's recipes feature my take on the tradition. If you have friends or family members who are sick, grieving or simply down on their luck, any of these would be a welcome gift.
Cottage pie and shepherd's pie are nearly interchangeable names. The former is best applied to a dish topped with sliced potatoes, which are said to resemble the tiled roof of a cottage. The latter is best applied when the dish is made with lamb instead of beef.
Cottage Pie, with Variation for Shepherd's Pie
Makes 6 to 8 servings
2 pounds medium potatoes, such as Yellow Finn, Yukon Gold or new red, peeled
- Kosher salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 yellow onion, cut into small dice
2 parsnips, peeled and cut into small dice
2 carrots, peeled and cut into small dice
4 to 6 garlic cloves, minced
6 cups diced leftover beef (see Note below)
2 cups dry white wine
2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley
- Black pepper in a mill
4 tablespoons butter, melted
Cut the potatoes into thin (about 1/8-inch) rounds, put them into a medium saucepan, add enough water to cover them by two inches, season with salt and bring to a boil over medium high heat. As soon as the water boils, reduce the heat, skim off the foam that forms on top and cook until nearly tender but not falling apart, about 10 to 12 minutes. Carefully drain the water off the potatoes and spread them on a baking sheet to cool.
Meanwhile, pour the olive oil into a large saute pan set over medium low heat, add the onion and saute until soft and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Add the parsnips and carrots and continue to saute until they begin to soften, about 10 minutes; stir frequently and do not let the vegetables brown. Add the garlic and saute 2 minutes more. Season with salt.
Stir in the meat, add the wine, increase the heat and cook until the wine is reduced to little more than ? cup. Stir in the parsley, season generously with black pepper, taste and correct for salt.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the meat mixture in a 9-inch-by-13-inch glass baking dish or similar ovenproof container. Pour half the butter over the potatoes, season with salt and pepper and toss gently to coat all the potatoes.
Top the meat with the potatoes, overlapping the slices to create a tiled effect. Use a pastry brush to coat the potatoes with the remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper, set on the middle rack of the oven and cook until the potatoes are golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
Variation: To make Shepherd's Pie, replace the sliced potatoes with 4 to 6 cups mashed potatoes and replace the beef with diced leftover leg of lamb or 2 pounds of ground lamb.
Add 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary along with the parsley. After spreading the meat mixture in the baking dish, cover the meat with mashed potatoes, using a rubber spatula to spread it evenly.
Drizzle 3 tablespoons of melted over the potatoes and sprinkle salt and pepper on top. Bake and serve as directed in the main recipe.
This recipe, adapted from one in my book "Polenta" (Broadway Books, 1997), replaces potatoes with creamy polenta and adds several ingredients to the meat to evoke Italian flavors. If you love polenta, you should love this version.
Italian Shepherd's Pie
Makes 6 to 8 servings
- Olive oil
- Sage & Shallot Polenta (see Note below)
? ounce Italian dried wild mushrooms
1 cup lukewarm water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound yellow onions, peeled and chopped
- Kosher salt
3 ounces pancetta, diced
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