Jim and Shirley Mondini have lived 66 years on their ranch off of Pine Flat Road above Healdsburg. The 1,725 acre ranch, a sprawling mix of pine forest, open oak woodlands and year around creeks is being donated by the family to the Audubon Canyon Ranch, a conservation group whose mission will be to keep the land as a sanctuary for native plants and animals. (Kent Porter / The Press Democrat)2009

Shirley and Jim Modini?s lifelong love for their ranch on Pine Flat Road moved them to preserve its landscape, wildlife and history

It?s an unwritten law ? or it should be ? that those who are fortunate enough to own something that is historically important or exceptionally beautiful have a moral obligation not to destroy it.

Unfortunately, this doesn?t always happen. Landmarks are paved over. Old-growth forests are logged. The greenest pastures are subdivided and mountains are reconfigured to accommodate vineyard and/or view.

Then there are people like Shirley and Jim Modini, whose home is east of Alexander Valley, off Pine Flat Road, in the rugged Mayacamas mountain range that separates Sonoma County from Lake and Napa counties.

Jim Modini grew up on the ranch, and he and Shirley have called it home all 66 years of their married life.

They are descended from the earliest settlers, who understood that land is not so much a commodity as it is a home. And they are people who take their moral obligation very seriously indeed.

Last month, the Modinis signed a collaborative agreement with Audubon Canyon Ranch, a nonprofit habitat preservation and environmental protection organization with sanctuaries (Bolinas Lagoon, Cypress Grove and Glen Ellen?s Bouverie Preserve) in Marin and Sonoma counties.

With this agreement, the couple, who have no children, are assured that their 1,725-acre ranch, handed down through four generations of family members, kept intact and pristine, will stay the way it is and pretty much way it has been for 142 years.

In a news story last month about their preservation agreement, it was reported that since Jim Modini came home from World War II, he and Shirley, both graduates of Healdsburg High School in the 1930s, have not been off their ranch ?longer than 10 days at a time.?

Actually, the reporter says he was confused by the fact that several people were speaking for the Modinis on the day of his visit. What he meant to write was that the couple, married in 1943, have not been away from the ranch for more than 10 days TOTAL since Jim came home from the Coast Guard in the mid-1940s.

They?ve never felt a vacation was necessary, they say; never felt a need to get away. Everything they love, which means the mountain peaks and high valleys, the springs and the wildlife and most certainly the history, is right there with them.

?People ask me how I can stand it, being so far out of town,? said Shirley, with some amusement. ?And I ask them how they can stand not being so far out.?

Where did they go, on these day or two trips? ?To look at bulls,? said Shirley, although Jim admitted to visiting friends who had a place in the Sierras.

DRIVING IN, you think about what could have been. It could have been a rich man?s hunting preserve, or divided into 100-acre ?estates? where urbanites could wow their friends with weekend views of Mount St. Helena.

But the sanctuary we enter has three young deer, two does and a buck, watching from beside the driveway. The kitchen table provides a view of a finch feeding her three babies in a nest under the porch eaves. The Modinis fill nine hummingbird feeders daily ? buying sugar by the 25-pound sack to satisfy the hungry hummers.

In past years Jim has rigged a camera to watch the black bear, mountain lions and other Modini ?neighbors? come to water on one of the several creeks that traverse the property. He declines to disclose the location, to protect his wild friends.

Apparently, the animals understand ?co-existence,? as Jim calls it. The Modinis raised prize Hereford cattle and, Jim says, never lost a calf or a steer to a lion.

The forces of nature shaped this spectacular landscape. And they aren?t through with it yet. Several fires have swept the area since settlement days, the last, the memorable Geysers Fire of 2004, came within a fire hose length of their house.

Then there?s the history to talk about. History tends to come in pockets in an environment as diverse as Sonoma County ? coast, valleys, mountains. The valleys were gone before we knew what happened. Wise and generous people saved the southern coast of the county 80 years ago. The eastern mountains, with their steep canyons and long, narrow ridges, have their own special stories. There may be more early history in this remote and sprawling corner of the county than some of the more populated spots.

Jim, at 92, is a little sketchy on the property?s history, although he has the deeds that tell the tale. The land falls between two of the northeastern-most Mexican land grants in the area, Rancho Caslamayomi and Rancho Mallacomes. The original homesteader was Emanuel Trancas in 1867, who was, in Jim?s words, ?a shirt-tail relation.? Trancas was the stepfather of Teresa Ingalls, whose son John C. Ingalls, known as Jack, ?married my Aunt Mame,? says Jim.

Jim was born in Sonoma, where his grandfather, Laurence Modini, was one of the earliest Italian immigrants to the county. He owned the Garibaldi Hotel at the turn of the 20th century. Jack London was known to frequent the Garibaldi bar. ?My grandfather liked him,? said Jim. ?My grandmother thought he was a showoff.?

His father, like his son named James O. Modini, an Ingalls in-law, ran the ranch in Jim?s youth.

Jim and Shirley can tell you about the last years of Pine Flat, the proverbial wide spot in the one-time road to The Geysers where there is nothing left of the town with 1,000 residents (or as many as 3,000, depending on who you ask), a couple of hotels, stores, all clustered around a profitable quicksilver mine in the late 1800s when mercury was in great demand. There was still a working mine at Pine Flat when the young Modinis took over the ranch from Jim?s father.

There?s the Old Foss Road, ?built by the Chinese,? Shirley reminds us. Jim gestures toward the canyon visible from the kitchen window, tracing with his arm the route that Clark Foss, the legendary 19th century stage driver, used to take tourists into the Geysers canyon from his Knights Valley depot, called Fossville. Foss?s drive on precipitous roads over places called ?The Hogback? and ?The Rattlesnake? reportedly had ?35 right-angle downgrade turns.?

The Modinis talk of Foss?s half-way stop to change horses at a spot called Whiskey Springs, for obvious reasons, and Shirley tells of her Grandmother Dewey?s experience on a ride where the women passengers crouched in terror on the floor. ?But not my grandmother. She was dignified.?

Jim can extrapolate on author Robert Louis Stevenson?s adventure with Foss. Stevenson reported in his ?Silverado Squatters? that he made his first telephone call from a Calistoga hotel to Foss?s ranch ? but, according to Jim, never completed the ride. Local legend says, ?He didn?t like it.?

Jim recalls hearing often of the direct action taken when the Foss days ended to stop public use of the road. ?There was a place with rock outcroppings on both sides,? he said, ?So the ranchers took some dynamite down there and blew up the rocks, leaving just enough room for a saddle horse to pass.?

Jim Modini has fond memories of his closest neighbor, Henry McDonnell. McDonnell was his ?mentor,? Jim says. ?He taught me a whole lot ... helped me pick out my first cattle.?

He did a good job. The Modinis were known for their polled Hereford bulls. In addition, they ran a herd of 350 sheep for wool ?with one black-faced ram for lambs to sell for meat,? Jim remembers.

The McDonnell family, first settlers in the Knights Valley area, had tales to tell. Henry?s mother, Eleanor (Ellen) McDonnell, was a surviving member of the Graves family, several of whom perished with the ill-fated Donner Party in the Sierras in the winter of 1846.

The McDonnell Ranch, later known as the McCord Ranch for Henry?s daughter, Florence McDonnell McCord, was among the first lands protected by the Open Space District and became the Mayacamas Mountain Preserve, a sanctuary donated to the National Audubon Society.

Easements purchased by our Open Space District have ?saved? many a mountain over the past two decades, including the Modini Ranch. Jim and Shirley sold an easement to the district in 2000 for $1 million, which prohibits building while allowing agricultural uses.

There was never a reason to look for ?Modini Ranch Cabernet? in your wine shop. Any suggestion of vineyard use draws a firm ?Over my dead body!? comment from Shirley. Vineyards are, in fact, forbidden by their agreement with the district. Now, in their pact with Audubon Canyon Ranch, they are promised that the Modini-Ingalls Ecological Preserve will be a sanctuary for native plants and animals and a research area for habitat protection.

Jim Modini is satisfied with the arrangement. ?I haven?t got nearly the things done I meant to do,? he said, ?but protecting the ranch is done. You can run ?em off protecting them,? he said, referring to the wildlife. ?Do you know what I mean??

A visit to the Modinis seems like a trip back in time. But not really. Just beyond the wildflowers and eagles? nests, the beasts and the birds, there are the poles and transmission lines carrying electricity from The Geysers, generated from the newest wrinkle on the landscape, the wastewater pipeline.

But I guess that?s history, too. Isn?t it?

UPDATED: Please read and follow our commenting policy:
  • This is a family newspaper, please use a kind and respectful tone.
  • No profanity, hate speech or personal attacks. No off-topic remarks.
  • No disinformation about current events.
  • We will remove any comments — or commenters — that do not follow this commenting policy.