Sonoma artisan foods win awards at San Francisco's Good Food Awards

Small, artisan food producers from across the country - including several North Bay purveyors of cheese and charcuterie, preserves and pickles - were recognized during the Good Food Awards ceremony last month at San Francisco's Ferry Plaza Building.

Organized by The Seedling Projects (a San Francisco-based organization that supports the sustainable-food movement) and hosted by Slow Food proponent Alice Waters, the first-ever awards were designed to spread the word about small, local and sustainable food producers across the nation.

"We wanted to bring to light the state of American food, in terms of how good it is," said Sarah Weiner, director of the Good Food Awards and co-founder of The Seedling Projects. "And we wanted to create a signal to consumers that they've found something that's not just sustainable or socially responsible, but also delicious."

Out of the 780 entries, there were 130 finalists and a total of 71 winners in seven categories: beer, charcuterie, cheese, chocolate, coffee, pickles and preserves. There were 80 judges from five different regions.

Among the charcuterie winners was the Girl & the Fig restaurant of Sonoma, which won an award for its coppa, a traditional, Italian cold-cut made from the shoulder muscle of a pig.

The Girl & the Fig executive chef John Toulze said he cures his coppa the old-fashioned way.

"We rub it with spices in the refrigerator for 18 to 21 days, then we take it out and rub it again with fennel or cayenne," Toulze said. "We case it in natural casing and hang it in the curing room for another 3 to 6 weeks."

Toulze, who serves the coppa on charcuterie plates and antipasti dishes, noted that there's a big difference between his housemade coppa and the kind you can buy at the grocery store.

"Instead of trying to say, &‘How do we take a process that took two months and turn it into two weeks,' we're saying, &‘How do we do it the right way?'," he said.

Like other Wine Country chefs, Toulze likes to source the best local products for his menu, so he crafts many of those products himself.

"The closer you are to it, the fresher it's going to be," he said. "We make all our bacon and pancetta, terrines and p?? .

.

. our own pickles, vinegar and olive oil." To celebrate his Good Food Award, Toulze has showcased his coppa with some pepperonata relish on a crusty baguette at the Girl & the Fig and served it on a wood-fired pizza at Estate in Sonoma.All of the winners of the Good Food Awards were asked to serve their products at a marketplace held Jan. 15 during the farmers market held at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza."I was just blown away by the number of people and the quality of the products," Toulze said. "The cheeses were just phenomenal. There were some kimchis to die for and a purple cabbage sauerkraut that was incredibly good."North Bay winners for cheeses included the venerable Red Hawk triple-cream cheese from Cowgirl Creamery in Petaluma. But Nicasio Square, a washed-rind cheese launched just a year ago by the Nicasio Valley Cheese Co, also won an award."It was quite an honor to be included in that select group," said Rick LaFranchi of Nicasio Valley Cheese Co. "I was told there were 45 entries, and there were eight winners, chosen on a regional basis."The washed-rind cheese comes from a Swiss-Italian recipe provided by cheesemaker Mauritzio Lorenzetti of Maggia, Italy, where the LaFranchi family has roots."It's a cousin of Taleggio, made in an 8-inch square," LaFranchi said. "It's aged 30 days .

To celebrate his Good Food Award, Toulze has showcased his coppa with some pepperonata relish on a crusty baguette at the Girl & the Fig and served it on a wood-fired pizza at Estate in Sonoma.

All of the winners of the Good Food Awards were asked to serve their products at a marketplace held Jan. 15 during the farmers market held at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza.

"I was just blown away by the number of people and the quality of the products," Toulze said. "The cheeses were just phenomenal. There were some kimchis to die for and a purple cabbage sauerkraut that was incredibly good."

North Bay winners for cheeses included the venerable Red Hawk triple-cream cheese from Cowgirl Creamery in Petaluma. But Nicasio Square, a washed-rind cheese launched just a year ago by the Nicasio Valley Cheese Co, also won an award.

"It was quite an honor to be included in that select group," said Rick LaFranchi of Nicasio Valley Cheese Co. "I was told there were 45 entries, and there were eight winners, chosen on a regional basis."

The washed-rind cheese comes from a Swiss-Italian recipe provided by cheesemaker Mauritzio Lorenzetti of Maggia, Italy, where the LaFranchi family has roots.

"It's a cousin of Taleggio, made in an 8-inch square," LaFranchi said. "It's aged 30 days .

.

. and washed several times a week in a brine solution that gives it its color and flavor." The Ceres Project of Sebastopol, a nonprofit that helps train young people in the kitchen while providing free, healthy meals for people with life-threatening diseases, won an award in the Pickles category for its Arame and Ginger Sauerkraut Salad.The salad, which is available at many local supermarkets as well as the Sebastopol farmers market, provides beneficial bacteria, which are often killed off by antibiotics and other medical treatments."Cancer patients are going through radiation, and it has a huge impact on the digestive system," said Cathryn Couch, executive director of the Ceres Community Project. "We started making it three years ago and have been providing it to our clients ever since."The project makes a traditional dill and garlic sauerkraut, along with the Asian-inspired sauerkraut made with ginger and arame, a sea vegetable rich in minerals."The dill and garlic is what you would put on a Reuben (sandwich)," Couch explained. "The arame and ginger is what you'd have with your brown rice and vegetables."In Healdsburg, Nancy Skall of Middleton Farm won an award for her Raspberry Preserves made by Merrilee Olson of PreserveSonoma in Sebastopol.Skall sells her jam at the Santa Rosa and Healdsburg farmers markets, where she is well known for her tasty raspberries."It's the berries that make the difference," she said. "Our berries are not like everybody else's. It's a secret variety."Olson takes the delicate raspberries and makes a delicious jam in small batches."She doesn't boil it," Skall said. "She does a two-day process. .

The Ceres Project of Sebastopol, a nonprofit that helps train young people in the kitchen while providing free, healthy meals for people with life-threatening diseases, won an award in the Pickles category for its Arame and Ginger Sauerkraut Salad.

The salad, which is available at many local supermarkets as well as the Sebastopol farmers market, provides beneficial bacteria, which are often killed off by antibiotics and other medical treatments.

"Cancer patients are going through radiation, and it has a huge impact on the digestive system," said Cathryn Couch, executive director of the Ceres Community Project. "We started making it three years ago and have been providing it to our clients ever since."

The project makes a traditional dill and garlic sauerkraut, along with the Asian-inspired sauerkraut made with ginger and arame, a sea vegetable rich in minerals.

"The dill and garlic is what you would put on a Reuben (sandwich)," Couch explained. "The arame and ginger is what you'd have with your brown rice and vegetables."

In Healdsburg, Nancy Skall of Middleton Farm won an award for her Raspberry Preserves made by Merrilee Olson of PreserveSonoma in Sebastopol.

Skall sells her jam at the Santa Rosa and Healdsburg farmers markets, where she is well known for her tasty raspberries.

"It's the berries that make the difference," she said. "Our berries are not like everybody else's. It's a secret variety."

Olson takes the delicate raspberries and makes a delicious jam in small batches.

"She doesn't boil it," Skall said. "She does a two-day process. .

.

. There's no preservatives or pectin." Other North Bay winners bubbled up in the beer category. North Coast Brewing Co. of Fort Bragg won an award for Pranqster, and Marin Brewing Co. of Larkspur won an award for its ESChi beer.To wrap up Good Food Month, there will be an immigrant-food and beer tasting on Sunday, Feb. 13, at the new Whole Foods on Haight Street in San Francisco."It will look like the San Francisco Street Food festival, but smaller," Weiner said. For more information, go to goodfoodawards.org.Meanwhile, planning and fund-raising have already begun for next year's awards. "We hope it will become an American food institution, similar to the James Beard Awards," Weiner said. "But be a San Francisco version of it."You can reach Staff Writer Diane Peterson at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com

Other North Bay winners bubbled up in the beer category. North Coast Brewing Co. of Fort Bragg won an award for Pranqster, and Marin Brewing Co. of Larkspur won an award for its ESChi beer.

To wrap up Good Food Month, there will be an immigrant-food and beer tasting on Sunday, Feb. 13, at the new Whole Foods on Haight Street in San Francisco.

"It will look like the San Francisco Street Food festival, but smaller," Weiner said. For more information, go to goodfoodawards.org.

Meanwhile, planning and fund-raising have already begun for next year's awards.

"We hope it will become an American food institution, similar to the James Beard Awards," Weiner said. "But be a San Francisco version of it."

You can reach Staff Writer Diane Peterson at 521-5287 or diane.peterson@pressdemocrat.com

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