When the wolf is at the door, learn to cook it. This sage advice comes, of course, from famed author M.F.K. Fisher in her book, "How To Cook a Wolf," written in 1942, a time when life was hard around the world. If you haven't read it, now is an ideal time to check it out of your local library.
Of course, neither Fisher nor I suggest that you should actually cook a wolf. I am an enthusiast supporter of all efforts to protect wolves. But like it or not, a wolf at the door is an analogy we all understand. Fisher was writing during World War II. And here we are again, in somewhat shaky circumstances, with the cost of gas, food and rent soaring and paychecks shrinking, if you're lucky enough to have a job.
At the same time, there's a waiting list at such destinations as Yountville's French Laundry, where a meal for two begins at $500, and Chicago's Alinea, where dinner for two can head towards a grand. I find the disparity between these two extremes distressing.
It's all got me thinking about thrift, about the things I do naturally all the time that make good economic sense and about what else I can do during these lean times.
It is, now more than ever, important to shop smart, something I've always considered but have not always practiced. Over the next several weeks, I'll visit the topic frequently in this column.
Let's start with chicken, which I consider an essential ingredient. I don't think it is a good idea always to look for the cheapest chicken. Chicken from large national producers tastes poorly and is usually pumped full of water, which you pay for. These chickens live miserable lives and are fed an unnatural diet. Over time, you don't really save money, as this chicken is not healthy for humans or the planet.
Look for chicken raised close to home. It doesn't have to be a pampered bird from a small local farm. There are plenty of other options, including Fulton Valley Farms and Petaluma Poultry, which produces Rocky and Rosie chickens. These chickens are on sale frequently at local markets.
When you buy chicken, never ever go for boneless and skinless. Any meat is best cooked on the bone and you can save the bones to make stock. I keep a bag in my freezer and add bones until I need to make stock. As far as the skin goes, why pay someone to remove it when it is so easy to do yourself? But perhaps more importantly, the skin provides flavor, lubrication and protection while the chicken is cooking. You don't need to eat it if you don't want to - personally, I love it - you should remove it after cooking, not before.
Even bone-in parts are more expensive and less useful than whole chicken. Roast whole chickens, use leftover meat for curries and others stews and salads and use the carcass for stock. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be eating deliciously and economically.
For Seasonal Pantry's recipes for roasted chicken, visit the column's companion blog, Eat This Now, at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.
Rice porridge, also known as jook and congee, is traditionally made with white rice but the other day I experimented with brown rice and am thrilled with the results. The recipe is simple, requiring little hands-on time and there are nearly infinite variations that can be served as breakfast, lunch or dinner. For a collection of Seasonal Pantry recipes for other versions of rice porridge, visit Eat This Now.
Brown Rice Porridge, Slow-Cooker Version
Makes 6 to 8 servings
? cup brown rice, rinsed under cool water
2 teaspoons kosher salt
3 to 4 cups chicken stock or broth, homemade or low-sodium
4 to 5 cups boiling water
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, optional
- Condiments of choice (see Note below)
Put the brown rice in a slow cooker, add the salt and pour in the broth or stock and water; you want a total of 8 cups of liquid. Add the toasted sesame oil, if using. Set the cooker on "high" for 2 hours and then reduce it to low for 4 hours.
To serve, ladle into soup bowls or cups and add your preferred condiments.
To use as a base for other soups, consult the variations that follow this recipe.
Note: Without condiments, the porridge is admittedly bland, which can be just the thing if you are convalescing. When you want something more flavorful, add a splash of soy sauce or fish sauce, a good Asian hot sauce, such as Sriracha, and some fresh cilantro leaves. If you don't like cilantro, use Italian parsley or shredded sorrel. You can also stir in some grated ginger, pressed garlic and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. Thinly sliced green onions and thinly sliced and fried shallots are also excellent.
Variations:
If you do not have a slow cooker, put the ingredients in a large soup pot, bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to very low and simmer until the mixture reaches the consistency of soft porridge, 3 to 4 hours. Stir the mixture now and then as it cook.
To use the porridge as a base for soup, saute about 6 cups of sliced winter greens in olive oil, a splash of water and a sprinkling of kosher salt until they are wilted and tender. I prefer lacinato kale but you can use any kale, any type of chard, mustard greens, collard greens, sorrel, or spinach. All you need to do is cook the particular green until it is tender; the time will vary depending on exactly what it is. Stir the greens into the porridge and either serve as is or puree with an immersion blender and serve.
After using the porridge as a base for soup with winter greens, serve it with a generous spoonful of plain yogurt.
Top each portion of porridge with a poached egg, chopped cooked bacon and your favorite hot sauce.
Top the porridge with cooked chicken or leftover pork, minced fresh herbs, a squeeze of citrus and hot sauce.
Cut fresh asparagus into 2-inch diagonal slices and roast in a very hot oven for 7 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears. Scatter on top of the porridge and drizzle with a little lemon olive oil or toasted sesame oil and fresh ginger.
Top the porridge with smoked salmon broken into chunks and season with soy sauce and lime juice.
After preparing the porridge, stir in 2 to 3 cups of cooked and seasoned beans, such as black beans or red beans. Season with plenty of hot sauce.
Michele Anna Jordan hosts "Mouthful" each Sunday at 7 p.m. on KRCB 90.9 & 91.1 FM. E-mail Jordan at michele@micheleannajordan.com. You'll find her blog, "Eat This Now," at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com/
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