Wine of the week: Marlstone, 2002 Alexander Valley Bordeaux red blend

What can California winemakers learn from the French when it comes to aging wine? Patience.

That's according to Erik Olsen, vice president and chief winemaker with Constellation Wines U.S. Olsen was the Clos Du Bois winemaker behind the first-place winner of the Press Democrat's 10-Year Retrospective - the Marlstone, 2002 Alexander Valley Bordeaux red blend.

"Most of California wines are consumed within five years of vintage and I think people enjoy the fruitiness of a more youthful wine," Olsen said. "California has the potential to make long-lived wines, especially in the cooler locations and in the cooler vintages. The warmer climate in California in general favors moderate-aging potential. With top Bordeaux, you don't even think of opening a bottle until it's at least 10 years old."

Olsen said what makes him a good match for producing Bordeaux red blends built to age is his experience in Washington State.

"I learned a lot about the importance of tannin management," he said. "The wines there were very intense in flavor and structure, sometimes painfully astringent, so it was really a focus to achieve balance through vineyard work, fermentation management and a good oak aging program. I was able to assemble blends and watch the wines develop over the long-term and that provided good perspective."

Staff writer Peg Melnik can be reached at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com