A PINOT FOR YOUR MAC AND CHEESE

As you're stocking your holiday pantry, you might want to add several

bottles of the Castle 1999 Los Carneros Pinot Noir, an accessible little wine

with enough finesse to flatter nearly any celebration.

The wine, one of our top-ranking wines of 2002, is light and bright, yet

not thin. There is a growing bias against such delicate pinot noirs by people

unfamiliar with the true nature of the varietal; yet pinot noir should be

light.

Without getting too technical about it, pinot noir lacks two chemical

components that contribute the deep pigments found in other red grapes. Thus,

those dark inky pinots we see these days are overextracted, an attempt by

winemakers to win over drinkers who prefer huskier reds, such as cabernet

sauvignon and zinfandel. But the pretty, ephemeral characteristics of pinot

noir account for much of its appeal; this varietal does not cause the vicious

headaches that other red wines do and it is the most food-friendly of all red

wines.

Having a crab feast? Add the right sauce -- a classic Louie dressing or red

cocktail sauce -- and this pinot makes perfect quaffing. It is divine with

turkey, excellent with most cheeses, delicious with seared duck breast, and

absolutely lovely with rare leg of lamb.

The acidity in this wine makes it a good match with pancetta, prosciutto,

bacon and tomato-based sauces.

For today's recipe, I've chosen an indulgent version of classic macaroni

and cheese, which is stunning paired with a light pinot noir such as this.

Macaroni and Cheese with Pancetta, Tomatoes and Bellwether's Carmody

Makes 6-8 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 pound pancetta, diced

1 pound ditalini

Kosher salt

3 cups heavy cream

2 cups canned diced tomatoes (preferably Muir Glen brand), drained

3 eggs, beaten

Black pepper in a mill

1 1/2 pounds Bellwether Carmody, grated

1/4 cup minced fresh Italian parsley

1 1/2 cups fresh bread crumbs, lightly toasted

Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet set over medium heat, add the

pancetta and fry until it is just barely crisp. Set it aside.

Cook the pasta in salted water according to package directions until it is

not quite done and still slightly firm at the center. Drain and rinse

thoroughly.

In a large bowl, mix together the cream, tomatoes and eggs. Season

generously with black pepper. Fold in the cheeses and the drained pasta, add

the pancetta and Italian parsley, and pour the mixture into a large (4-quart)

baking dish that has been coated with butter or olive oil.

Spread the bread crumbs over the top, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and

bake in an oven preheated to 350 degrees for 30 minutes, removing the foil for

the last 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest five minutes before

serving.

You can reach Michele Anna Jordan at MsMouthful@monitor.net.