Is ‘regenerative farming’ a buzz word you know?

Growing up in a suburb of Georgia, Elizabeth Whitlow said she knew little about farming issues. But that changed when she was an intern at the Center for Sustainable Agriculture and Renewable Energy in Arkansas, she said.

“I never knew how far food traveled to get to our plate,” Whitlow said.

Following her curiosity, Whitlow, who lives in Santa Rosa, earned a master’s degree in environmental studies from the Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington, in 2001. That year she begin working at the California Certified Organic Farmers, remaining there in different roles until 2017. With a deep knowledge of organics and the certification process, Whitlow joined the Regenerative Organic Alliance in 2018 as its executive director.

Whitlow, an advocate of regenerative farming, was selected as one of Wine Enthusiasts’ Future 40 Tastemakers and Innovators of 2022.

She described regenerative farming as a step beyond organic because it considers all the players in the farm system — from the soil health to animal welfare to social fairness for workers — with regulations to protect each.

Regenerative Organic Certified is the “gold standard,” Whitlow said, because it builds on organic farming. At its most fundamental, regenerative farming is restoring the soil.

“Only products that are certified under the (United States Department of Agriculture) USDA Organic program are eligible to apply for Regenerative Organic Certified,” she said. “USDA Certified Organic is a reputable, important designation, and we’re grateful for the tremendous efforts made by many to grow the organic market into what it is today. (Regenerative Organic Certified) is not intended to replace USDA programs but to set a new standard for what’s possible in our food and farming systems.”

Based in Sebastopol, Regenerative Organic Certified was founded primarily by the Rodale Institute, a nonprofit organization that supports research into organic farming; Dr. Bronner, an American producer of organic soap and personal care products headquartered in Vista; and Patagonia, an American retailer of outdoor clothing based in Ventura.

“Regenerative farming,” Whitlow said, “was not a common term in 2018 but now it’s a buzz word everywhere.”

Today, about 10 wineries in Sonoma County are nearly Regenerative Organic Certified, Whitlow said, although she prefers not to disclose the names. There are many more wineries across the globe that have expressed interest in applying for certification, she said.

“Wine grape growers have always been leaders in showing people what’s possible and wine drives so many economies,” she said. “It has a huge impact.”

How will regenerative farming gain momentum?

“Because consumers have been demanding healthier food grown with respect for the environment, companies have stepped in to provide consumers with products they can trust,” she said. “In much the same way consumers can demand that brands farmers and producers take the next step and make their products not only organic but regenerative organic.”

Why is regenerative farming crucial?

“Due to conventional farming systems, top soil is eroding 10 times faster than it can be replenished and if we continue to degrade the soil at the current rate, the world could run out of topsoil in about 60 years,” Whitlow said. “This comes from Maria-Helena who’s with the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organization.”

How does regenerative farming protect people?

“Sixty-seven percent of the United States labor pool is undocumented and there’s nothing to support them,” Whitlow said. “We’re training workers on their rights and helping them earn a living wage.”

What are the noteworthy intangibles of regenerative farming?

“Three different farmers – one from India, one from South Dakota and one from Nebraska – all observed the same thing,” Whitlow said. “They said they saw songbirds on their property, something they hadn’t seen since their grandparents farmed the property.”

Wine writer Peg Melnik can be reached at peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com or 707-521-5310.