John Ash shares his favorite non-beef burger recipes
Here’s a little history about burgers. According to Alan Davidson in his wonderful encyclopedic book, “The Oxford Companion to Food” (Oxford University Press, 1999), the word “hamburger” first showed up in print around 1890.
Cooked, flavored patties of meat, however, date way back and appear in many cuisines. It’s thought that the port of Hamburg in Germany and its Hamburg Steak, enjoyed by sailors who introduced it to others in their travels, is probably the birthplace for burgers as we know them today. Their fate was sealed when “hamburgers” served in a bun were introduced at the St. Louis World Fair of 1904, and the rest is history.
Burger purists will insist that burgers are only made from beef and that using any other base ingredient puts them in a different category. I don’t agree. All you have to do is look in current cookbooks or in the market to find burgers made from fish or poultry and vegetable/vegetarian versions that are becoming increasingly popular.
Here are some non-beef versions that are worth exploring.
This uses your favorite bottled barbecue sauce to punch up the flavor.
Pork Burgers with Slaw
Makes 4 burgers.
For the slaw:
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon chicken stock or milk
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste
2 generous cups thinly sliced green cabbage
½ cup very finely shredded carrot
½ cup thinly sliced sweet red onions
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the pork burgers:
½ cup of your favorite tomato-based barbecue sauce
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1½ pounds ground pork
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil, for the grill rack
4 buns or kaiser rolls or another soft, squishy roll, split and toasted or grilled
To make the slaw: Whisk together the mayonnaise, stock, vinegar and sugar in a large bowl until smooth. Add the cabbage, carrot, red onions and salt and pepper, to taste. Toss to coat. Set aside.
To make the pork burgers: Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over medium-hot heat. Alternately, heat a ridged grill pan over medium-high heat on the stove.
Stir together the barbecue sauce, salt and vinegar in a medium bowl until combined. Set aside. In another bowl, add the pork, black pepper and 3 tablespoons of the barbecue sauce mixture and gently mix together. Do not overmix. Form the mixture into 4 patties, each about ¾ of an inch thick, being careful not to pack the pork too tightly.
Oil the grill rack and then grill the burgers, flipping them once or twice, until just cooked through, about 8 minutes total. Then brush the top of each patty with remaining barbecue sauce mixture, flip again and grill for 30 seconds to get a little char. Repeat, so both sides of the burger have been coated with the barbecue sauce mixture.
Assemble the burgers, starting with the buns and the burgers and adding a heaping tablespoon of coleslaw on top of each. Consume with gusto!
If you like crab cakes, you’ll enjoy these shrimp burgers, too.
Shrimp Burgers with Peach Aioli
Makes 4 servings
1 pound peeled and deveined raw shrimp (any size), finely chopped
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
5 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon minced parsley
1 tablespoon minced green onion
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, preferably white
Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Drops of hot sauce, to taste
½ cup or so coarse dry breadcrumbs, preferably panko
Clarified butter or olive oil, for sauteing
4 soft brioche or Hawaiian rolls
Peach Aioli (recipe follows)
Toppings: Tomato slices, crisp lettuce leaves, Kirby cucumber slices
In a large bowl, add the shrimp, egg and mayonnaise and combine with the next 7 ingredients. Stir in ½ cup of the breadcrumbs. Don’t overmix. You want the cakes to just hold together and be delicate in texture. Mix in additional crumbs if the mixture is too moist. (Cook a small tester to make sure.)
Form into cakes. Lightly dust both sides with additional breadcrumbs. These can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 hours. In a large skillet over moderate heat, saute the burgers in clarified butter or oil until lightly browned on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.
Lightly toast the halves of the brioche buns, if desired, and spread generously with the aioli. Add the cooked shrimp burger to the bottom half, then the toppings. Cover with the roll tops.
Peach Aioli
Makes ¾ cup
1 cup peeled and sliced ripe peaches
1 teaspoon chopped ginger
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon fresh lime or lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey, or to taste
Salt and drops of hot sauce, to taste
⅓ cup mayonnaise
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
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