Mushroom pasta perfect with cabernet sauvignon

Our wine of the week, Rodney Strong 2018 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($30), is like one of those friends you’re always happy to see, no matter when they turn up. You can count on this wine to be consistently good, vintage after vintage, no matter what nature tosses its way.

The structure is balanced and elegant, with a firm backbone and chewy tannins that will continue to resolve for the next several years. Warm fruit aromas translate on the palate into suggestions of black plum, black raspberry and Bing cherry, with whispers of tobacco, black pepper, cool top soil, dried figs and milk chocolate. The finish is long and luxurious.

You’ll enjoy this wine with foods from the grill, from sweet onions, eggplant and the season’s first zucchini to chicken, sausages and most meats.

Cheddar cheese is a good companion, making the wine a good choice with a grilled cheese sandwich, a cheeseburger or macaroni and cheese. Soy sauce engages the wine nicely, too, which suggests Korean-style ribs and teriyaki (salmon, chicken or beef) will be outstanding matches.

Black olives and certain types of mushrooms flatter this wine, and I’ve taken inspiration from both for today’s recipe. The dish is similar to classic beef stroganoff, which is also a good match. Here I’ve omitted the beef and added black olive tapenade to further the connection with the wine.

Pappardelle with Portobello Mushrooms and Crème Fraîche

Serves 3 to 4

Kosher salt

12 ounces dried pappardelle

3 tablespoons butter

1 shallot, minced

10 to 12 ounces portobello mushrooms, cleaned and cut into ¼-inch wide slices

½ cup dry Madeira, such as Rainwater

Salt

Black pepper in a mill

½ cup crème fraîche

2 tablespoons black olive tapenade, homemade or commercial

1 tablespoon minced, fresh Italian parsley

Fill a large pot two-thirds full of water, add 1 tablespoon kosher salt and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water reaches a rolling boil, add the pasta, stir until the water returns to a boil and cook according to package directions until just done. Drain but do not rinse the pasta. Tip the pasta into a wide, shallow bowl that you have warmed.

Meanwhile, put the butter into a medium saute pan set over medium-low heat and, when it is foamy, add the shallot. Saute for 4 to 5 minutes, until softened. Season with salt.

Add the mushrooms, saute for 5 minutes, turn and saute 5 minutes more, or until the mushrooms are tender. Increase the heat to high, add the Madeira and agitate the pan while the Madeira reduces to about 2 tablespoons. Add the crème fraîche and gently agitate the pan until it merges with the other ingredients and is heated through.

Taste, correct for salt and season with several generous turns of black pepper.

Tip the mushrooms over the pasta and use two forks to gently lift and drop the pasta several times to coat it completely with the sauce and mushrooms.

Divide among individual pasta plates or bowls, top with a dollop of tapenade, sprinkle with parsley and enjoy right away.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “Pasta Classics.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.